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Posted

ive ran at .5ohm for two months daily and never dropped below 13.4 with my voltage.

Then you've got stupid rise.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

Posted

First let start with what you are trying to do. If you are only running a pair of 600w subs, then this discussion is going to be very simple. You have to plan the entire build based on what subs you want to run. Then you buy and amp that will give you the power you need. Then you make sure your electrical can handle that amp.

Posted

I also want to clarify something here that I think alot of people either don't know or just don't think about.

When you ask about a .5ohm stable amp, the question that you are really asking is if the amp will run at .5ohm reactive, not nominal.

Nominal is what you are wired to at the amp before any signal is applied.

Reactive is your actual ohm load the amp sees once a signal is applied to the subs.

This is where impedance rise comes into play and you have to understand this before you start wiring below 1 ohm.

When wiring at .5 ohm nominal on a 1 ohm stable amp, you are relying totally on impedance rise to get you up over 1 ohm reactive so that your amp will stay on and not go into protect.

Posted

lanzar opti's are .5 ohm stable and put out good power for the price

Used to have a loud truck

2009 Corvette Z06, H/C/I, 150 shot, g force tune, 730rwhp/690rwtq

2013 F-150 limited, MPT Tune, leveled on 35"s

Posted

Run my 2500 at half. Box rise is about to 1.5 at where i burp. My electrical isnt great so I never go full tilt on her.

1993 Ford Ranger
Walkthrough
20, North Georgia

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