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I smell my coils before anything. Heck my dust caps never even get above the outside temp.

 

'01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log
2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log

On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said:

Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult.

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Will do as soon as i get access to a dmm.

Should i be going with 31.6v (500w) or 34v (581w) with that tone?

81 watts over rms rating shouldn't be an issue should it?

'07 Ford Ranger - DM-608 I E700.4 I SA-CX6.5 v2 I SAZ-1500D 15th (x2) I Zv6 12" D1 I SB500-34 I JP40 I

On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said:

of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger.

only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers

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I was quite surprised by the heat when i first noticed it on my sub, never checked before though.

Should it be warm after only a 5-6 minutes of music? thats what surprised me the most.

'07 Ford Ranger - DM-608 I E700.4 I SA-CX6.5 v2 I SAZ-1500D 15th (x2) I Zv6 12" D1 I SB500-34 I JP40 I

On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said:

of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger.

only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers

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My skar vvx 12's get pretty warm run off the equipment in my sig. They seem to get hotter when the temperature outside is hot, I'm guessing this has to do with the air thats cooling the gap. If it's cooler that means the air should be cooler and therefore cool the sub more.

THE ANTHRACITE DYC CRUISER

-Fully dipped anthracite grey pt cruiser

-4 skar vvx 12's (version 1)

-Mechman 240 amp alt -Big three in Cadence 1/0

-1 deka intimidator g31 blacktop under the hood

-1 C&D 140ah Batt & 1 C&D 55ah batt in the rear

-Re audio/soundstream mids and highs

-Hifonics Zues 600.4

-DC Audio 3.5k

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