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So i figure i should post some of my own car audio setuo here on SMD istead of just commenting on others stuff and posting "random pic's"

Did alternator upgrade for the 2nd time (from a 170 G series mechman to 250 Elite) & wiring upgrade yesterday (for the 3rd time) i think it turned out ok.

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Not much to see in the cab but it does the job,

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My source unit, the istreamer i'm using is mounted to the backside of the side slider.

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I've got some running around to do this afternoon, will post some more pictures of the setup later.


'07 Ford Ranger - Soundman SS | iStreamer | AudioControl | Sundown Audio | Stereo Integrity | Mechman | Northstar

On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said:

of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger.

only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers

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Clean work on that electrical system. Tuned in ......

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SINGER 200 amp HO ALT

Big 5 0 AWG-RF Wiring

Optima Blue top-under hood

Kenetic HC 600 under hood

2 Kenetic HC1800 in trunk

Stinger VM

DEH-80PRS HU

RF P3 8" mid-bass in custom kick Panels

RF T265 comps x2 in custom door panels

RF T165 comps in Rear Doors

2 SQ HDS310snin a JOE X designed box

RF T400-4 ( x 2 )

RF T400-2

RF Power T1500bdcp.

All RF & SHCA OFC  0,4,8,12 wiring.

Fuse's from SMD & RF.

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Thank you for the compliments so far, i'm a proud union pipefitter and pride in my quality of work is what i strive for regardless of the job/task.

I'm gonna have to do some trouble shooting though.

At idle with the 170A alt that i replaced at full tilt on the system i would get a little headlight dimming but the biggest part was it would pull from 775-750 rpm down to 550-600.

The new 250A alt barely budges my tachometer but i'm probably getting at least twice maybe even three times more dimming than before all these upgrades.

All i did was replace the JL Marine 3 spot 1/0 set screw battery terminals on the front and back batteries and upgraded all the 2 gauge CE Auto OFC with 2/0 welding cable Re-did the big three with it and the + & - run to the rear battery (~16' the way i routed it, same as before the upgrades)

I used my dremel to take the tin out of the female end of the rings down to copper before i used an 8ton crimper to set them.

I don't have my VM-1 hooked up at the moment but when i parked my truck this evening i checked and at idle i was at 14.6V with the stereo off.

Unsure of the voltage drop i'm getting at full blast now(will re-connect VM-1 to check tomorrow) but i was dropping to the high 12's before this.

Jackie-Chan-WTF.jpg

Edited by Markous

'07 Ford Ranger - Soundman SS | iStreamer | AudioControl | Sundown Audio | Stereo Integrity | Mechman | Northstar

On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said:

of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger.

only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers

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Here's the sound treatment i did in the cab.

Used two layers of ultimate b-quiet damper and their accoustic foam on the outer skin of the four doors and in the low spots of the back wall to create a flat surface for the damper.

Didn't like the sound of the boom matt baffles sealed up, cut the holes you see and stuffed them with loose polyfil to keep the dust away.

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No pictures of the roof, the headliner was back in before i thought to take pictures


'07 Ford Ranger - Soundman SS | iStreamer | AudioControl | Sundown Audio | Stereo Integrity | Mechman | Northstar

On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said:

of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger.

only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers

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sweet!

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2000 Ford Ranger Sport Ext

Digital Designs DD915J

4.91 net birch box, inch port @ 33hz

FSD FZ2600

FSD FZ100.4

Pioneer DEH80PRS

PRV Audio 6MB200-4 6-1/2" Midbass Woofers

Tymphany BC25SC08-04 1" Silk Dome Neodymium Tweeters with Waveguide

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So i got my VM-1 hooked up and yeah there has to be something wrong here.

Charges hot between 14.9 and 14.6 (not gonna complain about that)

When i'm playing music at full tilt it will bounce between 13.0 and 15.5 (yikes?)

Is it normal to have a voltage sweep like that given what you see i've done to my truck?

If it helps with diagnosis the old setup charged at 14.3 almost always and swept between 12.5 and 14-14.3 at full blast. (170A mechman and 2 gauge wiring)

Edited by Markous

'07 Ford Ranger - Soundman SS | iStreamer | AudioControl | Sundown Audio | Stereo Integrity | Mechman | Northstar

On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said:

of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger.

only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers

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Not sure i like that spike i'm getting

https://youtu.be/vnxqZgzdUb8


'07 Ford Ranger - Soundman SS | iStreamer | AudioControl | Sundown Audio | Stereo Integrity | Mechman | Northstar

On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said:

of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger.

only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers

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i was going to say 15.2 is not really anything to be concerned about but your meter looks like its getting close to 16vdc.... when the alt is working hard its pretty normal for it to drag the engine down 200-400rpm but as you said the higher output alt does not do this and that is because there is more power on tap and it does not have to work as hard.... all I can think is there must be a bottle neck somewhere in the charging system.... take a DMM and probe it everywhere you can and find where it gets the largest voltage drop.... you might also have a weak cell in a battery causing it to drain faster and it wants to charge more and the alt is over driving?

with a smaller rms system you should have no problems with that large of an alt and the wiring you have installed

check what your resting voltage is after it sits for 12+ hours

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