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Why use ports? Confused about what I've read....


vrollin

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Ok so I've only ever ran with sealed boxes and would like to get an understanding on ported boxes. I've read bits of info from all over but I'm a little lost as to what it all means...

I understand that a port will tune the box to a certain frequency, but what does that mean exactly? Does that mean that the sub will primarily play for eg 35hz and the rest of the frequencies up to the low pass will be a lot quieter? Or does it mean that all frequencies will play as per a sealed box however the tuned frequency will play a lot louder?

Using my set up for example, I'm running two Focal 27V1 in sealed boxes in the small cab of my ute, and I feel like I should be getting more out of them compared to subs in the past where I've had one in a much larger car. Now I have a funny feeling that its because I have had to integrate into the factory head unit its processor is a bit shitty and letting me down and I do know that I'm getting a bit of cancellation and cant nut it out with the two amps cut off frequency dials which is killing me. However if I ported the sealed boxes what changes should I expect from my low end?

Thanks

Brad

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Will it reduce the punchyness of the subs? Yeah its a word!

everything will come down to the design of the box and the quality of the build

This is very true but you also need to use a sub designed for ported enclosures, this normally has a qts of >50 (but not alway)

In you car you have no hope going ported unless it's a sinlge 8 or maybe 10 and I mean maybe,

They only option is blow through or 4,6 or 8th order in rear,

But unless you to get engineers for the big hole to do blow through, idd look into 4,6 or 8th order

As you'll get away with some 100mm or 150mm ports

I just done a ve with 4th for 2 p30 12" with the v165 and it wasn't bad for entry level focal,

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Will it reduce the punchyness of the subs? Yeah its a word!

everything will come down to the design of the box and the quality of the build

This is very true but you also need to use a sub designed for ported enclosures, this normally has a qts of >50 (but not alway)

In you car you have no hope going ported unless it's a sinlge 8 or maybe 10 and I mean maybe,

They only option is blow through or 4,6 or 8th order in rear,

But unless you to get engineers for the big hole to do blow through, idd look into 4,6 or 8th order

As you'll get away with some 100mm or 150mm ports

I just done a ve with 4th for 2 p30 12" with the v165 and it wasn't bad for entry level focal,

Why couldn't I go ported? Is there a reason it wont work? The VE you did was that in a ute?

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Yes it was, but to do it behind the seat is nere impossible

You'll need 60lts gross volume to do a single 10" ported in 28lts net at 32-33hz

And to fit that in with the trans tunnel in the way won't give you much room to do the port

The only way I've ever done it was a box like your but sealed all the way accross to make 1 box(not 2like yours) and run 2x 75mm external aero ports straight up the back window firing at roof

Another thing to look at is most sub require 50-60% more net volume to go ported over sealed

Then you need to take into consideration the port, and the smaller the net volume of the box the longer the port needs to be,

A 30ltr box with say a 90cm^2 port will require close to 115cm long port at 32-33hz

You see what I mean now

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your subs belong in a ported enclosure. directly from crutchfields website: The Polyglass 27 V1 11" subwoofer can take up to 250 watts RMS, and it's designed for use in a ported enclosure,

ported box volume: 0.53-1.06 cubic feet per subwoofer.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-AJmIvz7A0fg/p_09127V1/Focal-Polyglass-27-V1.html

WARNING: I speak 4 languages, profanity, English, sarcasm & real shit

2003 ford explorer

2 RF T1 D4 15s in a 6.8 cubic ft box

1 T1500.1bdcp

250amp ALT by Mike Singer

2 runs of 0 gauge

3 yellow tops

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