john253a Posted September 3, 2012 Report Posted September 3, 2012 I want a common chamber box. But yet you drew a dual chamber box in your pictures I'll see what I can do
Joe X Posted September 3, 2012 Report Posted September 3, 2012 I want a common chamber box. Most likely it will need to be port to the side for a common chamber.
Daniel Shepard Posted September 3, 2012 Author Report Posted September 3, 2012 How is that considered a dual chamber when they are still sharing the box? Is it not considered one box with the Port is in the middle? I guess that makes sense, but I really want the port centered for cosmetic reasons. I could order a areo port and put it centered. What size and how long? Thanks for your help guys!
ear2ear Posted September 3, 2012 Report Posted September 3, 2012 ^^^ being a slot port, it divides the box into seperate chambers since it goes all the way to the opposite side of the box (and turns). To use a round port that's long enough, it would have to bend also. That's why JoeX mentioned side port - be it round or slot. '09 Sierra Ext Cab - under construction (1) RF T2500-1 -running- (4) RF T1 12's (1) RF T1000-4 -running- (2) RF T1652-S Stock alt / battery -plus- (1) DC Power 230a & (2) Kinetik 1800 Buncha OFC Knu Buncha Second Skin Kenwood DDX814 - Alpine Imprint - RF 360.3
Daniel Shepard Posted September 4, 2012 Author Report Posted September 4, 2012 not my first choise of box, i would have done a common chamber box I guess I dont get this drawing. It wont fit in the space I have. the angled part on the top is facing my roof, thats where I want the subs and port. And about the dual chamber box... how about one box, one divider in the middle and two slot ports on each end? How bad would it sound with the way it is, port centered?
john253a Posted September 4, 2012 Report Posted September 4, 2012 i wouldn't recommend a dual ported box for this for 1 reason a good hight to width ratio, can't be achieved, now on your drawing you have to angle sides, so can you be more specific about the witch way you have drawn it, the way you have it now and to keep it square the box can be floor to roof 14" depth (front of car to rear) 11.2" width (side to side) 36" now being in a bug, it in the front, so that is the clearance between the top of box at 14" high to roof trunk as youll need at least 2" and also with sub port up it will make you trunk rattle like a mofo idd do both forward or rear,
Daniel Shepard Posted September 4, 2012 Author Report Posted September 4, 2012 Its going in the rear cargo area behind the rear seats. My drawing is how it will look. The "side" view has two angles, the one on top is where I want the subs and port. The one to the left side is the angle of my rear seat. that can become straight with the max size of 11.25 instead of angled. I want the top angled so I can build a nice trim panel to the rear window and so It gives it some character.
Daniel Shepard Posted September 4, 2012 Author Report Posted September 4, 2012 Ok, if its easyer to just square it off Ill do it. So my length would be 36, hight would be 14, and width would be 11.25. Subs and port on the 11.25 part (top). Anyway to make this work better? I want to start building this as soon as possible. I would love to have the baffle (top) at a angle as pictured. I can square off the 11.25/15 side and just make the width 11.25 but I really want the top to have that 1.5" rake so it looks more custom. I can still port out of a angle, just round the angle down to a even number to figure lengh. But your right, it would be a double box not a common chamber, how bad would this sound and what else can I do with wanting the port centered? I like symmetrical boxes, drives me bonkers when there not! Sorry bad size but theres the Idea. Subs inverted, port facing up. angled from the top of my rear seat to the bottom of my back window, subs and port mounted on angle
Daniel Shepard Posted September 6, 2012 Author Report Posted September 6, 2012 Still looking for help is anyone is willing. Hopfully my 8s show up soon but need to get this built first!
ear2ear Posted September 6, 2012 Report Posted September 6, 2012 Ok I did some sketching in CAD. You can do the subs up center port up with angled top. If you use your heights of 14 and 15.5, the box would be 24" wide. If you rather use your full 36" width, the box height would be 9.25" and 10.75". Since you want the top flush with your interior you could put the box on 'legs'... and create a 4.75" tall cubby space underneath for amps, x-overs, etc.. The above is 1.2 cu ft net using 3/4" wood - single baffle 1.813" x 9.75" port x 30" long gives you 34 hz Note: you mentioned subs inverted so I figured the added volume of 2 - 8" cutouts @ 3/4" thick. I did not figure any volume for the inverted cone of the woofer. Note: when the port makes the turn it is only .906" (29/32") x 9.75......kinda skinny @ 10.75:1 ratio I did not figure any bracing. I don't recommend volumes, port sizes, etc - but you wanted .6 per woofer and 33-34 hz. Port area came out to 14.73 per cube. Any less makes the port even skinnier. Hope this helps. You have 2 different box widths & heights to choose from. If you want something changed let me know. I totally feel ya on the symmetry! It's a curse... '09 Sierra Ext Cab - under construction (1) RF T2500-1 -running- (4) RF T1 12's (1) RF T1000-4 -running- (2) RF T1652-S Stock alt / battery -plus- (1) DC Power 230a & (2) Kinetik 1800 Buncha OFC Knu Buncha Second Skin Kenwood DDX814 - Alpine Imprint - RF 360.3
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