tmac93 Posted September 20, 2012 Report Posted September 20, 2012 finally got my setup going after all the hard work, 18'' ssa icon in 6cuft box tuned to 33hz, ran with a brz.2100.D well heres my problem, i can turn it up and it be loud but after about 10 minutes or so, the amp shuts off, and is pretty hot. thought i may have blown a fuse, but fuse is fine, i guess its just the amp overheating. another thing is when everythings running fine and its hitting good my capcitor stops reading numbers and just reads 3 small lines across the screen. im running all stock electrical, and running 4 guage power and ground, and small fuse block with 80A fuse. Also for this amp to be so big and the sub only able to handle 1250rms my amp is turned 3/4 of the way up? if anyone can help me it would be very much appreciated, just point me in the right direction. im very sure that i dont have enough power, do i need an extra battery, alternator, bigger wires, or what? i just dont want to go spending money not knowing what i need, [/img] [/img]
Skullz Posted September 20, 2012 Report Posted September 20, 2012 Step up to 1/0 and ditch the 4awg cause it will really strain your system running wire that small on that amp. Thar smaller power and ground wire isn't letting enough power get to the amp so it is heating up from the low voltage. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2
fox_racin4 Posted September 20, 2012 Report Posted September 20, 2012 If your cap is reading 3 small lines... I bet your Under 12v, which will heat the amp up quick, putting it into thermal protect. 1998 gmc extd cab 12 crossfire C710s 4 SAZ-4500s 3 Singer 400A altsbuncha mids/highs Team Asshole
tmac93 Posted September 20, 2012 Author Report Posted September 20, 2012 Step up to 1/0 and ditch the 4awg cause it will really strain your system running wire that small on that amp. Thar smaller power and ground wire isn't letting enough power get to the amp so it is heating up from the low voltage. thanks, i thought that was a problem, cause when i go to the back and grap the power the wire is prettyyyyyy damn hot.
Chris Hammer Posted September 20, 2012 Report Posted September 20, 2012 You would be better off with a second battery than a cap. But you are probably dropping under 12v bad if you have stock electrical. Have you done the Big 3 and have you thought about an ALT MY BUILD *****http://tinyurl.com/gmcbuild***** Vehicles 2005 GMC Canyon CB1000r - Currently where any future funds are going. (exhasut,bazzaz, ohlins shock, screen, etc.) crf250r - Used to be race bike..now I just trail ride..practice at the track on it. CH80 - Daily beater (when nice weather)best 150$ ever spent. 100+mpg Sold to: Skullz - pstone11 - Leo1103 - Volvo 63' - pavelpardo - imnew59585 Shower farts still piss me off.I think theyre pretty neat. When the water runs down your crack as you let one out... its like shitting in a crockpot.
tmac93 Posted September 20, 2012 Author Report Posted September 20, 2012 If your cap is reading 3 small lines... I bet your Under 12v, which will heat the amp up quick, putting it into thermal protect. yeah, i noticed when volume is down im sitting at 14v but as i crank the volume up it drops to 13v, then to 12v, and then blank lol. most noticeable with low notes. what would be your suggestion to solve this??
tmac93 Posted September 20, 2012 Author Report Posted September 20, 2012 You would be better off with a second battery than a cap. But you are probably dropping under 12v bad if you have stock electrical. Have you done the Big 3 and have you thought about an ALT No, its all stock, under the sub box is my battery and spare tire, so i just got power and ground ran there, straight to cap, then to amp. so the wires are maybe 2 1/2 foot. if i got a second battery to put back there, i would like to go with xs power batts, any suggestions on which one? and i have thought about getting a mechman alt but im trying to stay away from it unless i absolutley need it, because of price.
RooTxBeeR Posted September 21, 2012 Report Posted September 21, 2012 Turn your gain down a bit, you need bump up your eletrical, unless your stock alt is 100+ you need to get a new one soon. And take the other advice stated in this thread, get rid of the cap! On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
tmac93 Posted September 21, 2012 Author Report Posted September 21, 2012 Turn your gain down a bit, you need bump up your eletrical, unless your stock alt is 100+ you need to get a new one soon. And take the other advice stated in this thread, get rid of the cap! okk, thankss
ChevyBoy95 Posted September 21, 2012 Report Posted September 21, 2012 more electrical support, 1/0 OFC wiring, and common sense are needed (if your cap stopped reading voltage, that should be a red flag) Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/
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