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How to properly tune a line driver with DD1


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This is a piece that is overlooked by so many when tuning a system. If something isn't set right, the blame always goes to the sub and amp when in reality the line driver is probably the cause. That was the reason I made these videos.

I had a shop installer tell a customer that his 1.2k and level 2 were bad because, 1- he didn't know how to properly tune the system or 2- he is a shady mother fucker and just wanted to sell the jl product he carried instead of correctly setting up the equipment supplied by the customer.

The piece in question was an audio control lc2i. The installer told me that the amp would distort at ANY gain level. WTF! Had no clue what I was talking about when I asked him what the input voltage was from the line driver to the amp. (MAJOR RED FLAG)

My customer believed him since he is the shop installer and is supposed to know what he is talking about. He sent his 1.2k and sub back in to be tested just to find out that nothing is wrong with either.

These basics were one of the first things that I learned when I got serious about car audio, thanks to this site. I find it fucking pathetic that an experienced installer can't get something like this right and cost his customer money by having him send the equipment back to be tested.

An installer should know the basics and be able to at least get the settings close. But as an installer you are only as good as the tools you use. Steve and Tony are providing the industry with the proper tools to make installing/tuning aftermarket car audio very simple and easy to understand. Every shop should have these tools in their tool box!

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dude, Bro, MY MAN.......those were GREAT video's. Thanks so much for taking the time to make them and post them up. :drink40: Everything you said makes sense. In the end, if you have a line driver, chances are, your amps gains will be all the way down or barely up. That is because the gain is then properly matched to whatever is in front of it. In this case, the amp being fed PLENTY of input voltage. No need for extra gain and the dd-1 proved that. And like i been stressing, that is the gains one and only purpose. To be matched to its source's output. I don't know why people, especially people that should know better, are so hard headed and try to argue with me :D.

But for the Ear-o-tuners, i will say this. Once you find your maximum non distorted output, and all gains are matched, it never hurts to turn them DOWN a little.......while tuning by ear, if you need to. Heck, thats why there is overlap tracks included 8) . There's obviously more to tuning then just the DD-1. The ears will come into play for SURE. But, i will argue til i am blue in the face......a DD-1 OR an O-scope should always be your first step. Ear-o-tune away once you know you are safe!

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good job Cody. We found last year that my maxxlink was distorted all the way through even when it was turned down as low as it could go :(

:ninja:

i did Rusty's Max-Link and although i didn't understand the double-gain thing (why they did that), his wasn't too dirty. I was able to set the gains and get clean signal out of it. :)


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Phenominal... I just printed out the steps you wrote so I can properly set everything when I swap headunits. Thanks for great videos.

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NICE video!

Lots of advice out there to use line drivers with HU's that have "low" output voltages.

This is a great example of how LD's can actually cause more harm then good.

:good:

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There is a place to use a line driver. Most cases are with stock headunits that have weak preout voltages. If you have a good aftermarket headunit with a 2v+ preout voltage, then there is no need for a line driver. I just had to use my bench to show the test.

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There is a place to use a line driver. Most cases are with stock headunits that have weak preout voltages. If you have a good aftermarket headunit with a 2v+ preout voltage, then there is no need for a line driver. I just had to use my bench to show the test.

Is there any advantage using a line driver with a aftermarket Head unit 2v preout voltage?

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Amps = Kicker 750.1, Going to install Sundown 1500D v3 and Sundown 125.4

Battery = XS D3400

Wires = Kicker RCA's, 0 Gauge street wire and Stinger

Mids and Highs = Stock

Sub= Kicker L7 12"

Alternator = 220 Mechman

Sound Deadner= Fatmat and Stinger Road Kill

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Great video

Build Under Construction

Head Unit = Kenwood DDX514

Amps = Kicker 750.1, Going to install Sundown 1500D v3 and Sundown 125.4

Battery = XS D3400

Wires = Kicker RCA's, 0 Gauge street wire and Stinger

Mids and Highs = Stock

Sub= Kicker L7 12"

Alternator = 220 Mechman

Sound Deadner= Fatmat and Stinger Road Kill

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