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Sub and port location: Level 4 in hatchback


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Hello !

I'm about to build a box for Mazda 3 5 doors (hatchback).

The equipment is:

single 15" Level 4 with XL soft parts

Celestra DA2K (2100RMS)

My question is:

What is the best locations for the subwoofer and port?

would it be better putting them on different sides, like sub upward and port firing to the rear door or the opposite maybe ?

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u can keep sub facing up(roof) and port firing towards passenger /driver side

or keep both sub n port upwards

your call

@My OpiniOnZ MAy HaVe ChanGeD, But Not The Fact ThAt I'm Right.........!!

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What do you want out of this sub? Tuned that low with that much port, I don't think you will be able to hit 31hz

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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I've always been told sub up port back is a good general rule of thumb. If you do go port back you have to make sure you have enough room for the port to breath can make it harder with a bigger box.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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I've always been told sub up port back is a good general rule of thumb. If you do go port back you have to make sure you have enough room for the port to breath can make it harder with a bigger box.

At minimum must be the port's width from the the hatch.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Share on other sites

I've always been told sub up port back is a good general rule of thumb. If you do go port back you have to make sure you have enough room for the port to breath can make it harder with a bigger box.

At minimum must be the port's width from the the hatch.

yep, my last box had the sub and port facing the same side. had it facing the rear with only about 2" of space with the port being about 4" wide did a 144 turned the box and faced it up did a 146. audio control meter

so what ever design you pick make sure you will have enough room for that port to breath and if you chose to have the port and sub on the same side have it meterd facing every possible direction.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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