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Possible Spark Knock? How to Fix


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had a similar problem with my explorer like the guy in the vid, ended up being my plug wires, under load or acceleration it creates more of a load on the plug wires causing them to short out to the nearest ground, check your plugs and the only real way to check you plug wires is with an ohm meter, usually they range from 4k ohms to 7k ohms per foot

Hmm...I'll try this since I have a DMM. Thanks.

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Before I jumped to a bad engine conclusion I would look at other things especially since this is a knock issue. The first thing I would do would be check into a top end engine cleaning to remove carbon buildup from the intake valves and combustion chamber. After that is done, it is recommended to replace plugs because of the garbage that will be floating about and pushed out of the exhaust. A knock left alone can lead to engine failure. If doing the cleaning plug replacement which is normal maintenance does not resolve the problem then I would check in to timing then condition of the engine. It would also be a good idea to make sure the pathway for the egr is clean. A good do it yourself topend cleaning product is the seafoam spray, mechanic shops have access to better but for an initial diagnosis the 14 bucks for seafoam beats 120 to be paid to a shop.

Barstad

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I remember reading somewhere higher octane burns hotter and slower then 87. I have no clue where I read that from, it was a few months ago. But wouldn't higher octane cause more knock if is due to fuel igniting sooner than it was supposed to due to heat?

 

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On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said:

Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult.

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higher octane fuel burns slower

I think 92 4AFE's had knock sensors. 7AGE's got them in 93.

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Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

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Well, my mechanic said it'd be about $100 to take off the EGR valve and give it a clean, so Hopefully tomorrow or Friday I'll try to get it off. I don't have the tools to get to the bolts, but I know someone that does. I'm hoping the EGR valve is clogged with carbon, if that affects spark knock at all. I'm really hoping this is a relatively simple fix.

Would seafoaming really help remove the Carbon buildup in the engine? I've gotten different opinions from reading online.

My Channel on YouTube. Check it out for cinematic-style Car Audio videos.

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New 2014 Scion TC 4th Wall Build

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217173-2014-tc-4th-order-build-3-fi-sp4-15s/

 

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The EGR system pre-heats the intake air volume, so if it is stuck open it could cause pinging. Second gen 4AFE's re-routed the coolant flow to cool the head first to keep the intake air from becoming too hot to reduce pinging.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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So I got the EGR valve off. Hardly any carbon build up at all, so that's out of the question. Gonna seafoam and change the oil tomorrow, also got a new fuel filter so I'll change that too. I really hope the Seafoam does the trick. Once I run this tank down completely I'll fill up with a tank of 89 and see if it still happens.

My Channel on YouTube. Check it out for cinematic-style Car Audio videos.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcSMhtT-rpopJbdybubDgnQ

 

New 2014 Scion TC 4th Wall Build

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217173-2014-tc-4th-order-build-3-fi-sp4-15s/

 

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