revoracing247 Posted November 2, 2012 Report Posted November 2, 2012 hey guys, couldn't find a category that this would fit under so im putting it here. i also realize this isn't the best forum to ask this, but it's the only forum i get on. anyways, i've been working on rebuilding my 2005 crf250r and today i finally got around to putting the valves in and testing the seats to see if they made a good seal. well after doing it multiple times i found one of my intake valves always leaked. so my question is, is it ok to just get one valve re-seated or do i have to go get all of them re-seated? also i noticed it was the valve side that was leaking, depending on where i turned the valve, it changed where is was leaking from. and after watching youtube vids for a bit i never saw the valves getting cut. so do you just buy new valves if their seats are bad like mine? thanks for any input you have! btw here's my bike from a while ago when i was putting on a new chain and sprocket. also if you want more pictures i've got some i can upload ~ If it was easy, everybody would be doing it ~
bdog Posted November 2, 2012 Report Posted November 2, 2012 you can just do one but why not freshen things up a bit while your already in there REP
revoracing247 Posted November 2, 2012 Author Report Posted November 2, 2012 mainly price though if it's not too much of a difference between the two i guess i would go and get all done cause it'd give them a new seat to wear through and i don't have to possibly tear it apart soon to do it all again. but do you know if the seat on the valve itself can be ground? or are they kind of just a replace when worn thing? ~ If it was easy, everybody would be doing it ~
CleanSierra Posted November 2, 2012 Report Posted November 2, 2012 Good lookin CRF, I had an X that was a beast, but too heavy for me. She was a BEAST on single track trails and I should have done some hair scrambles with it: I'd redo all 4 seats with Beryllium coppers if it were me. You can upgrade to Ti valves as well. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.
revoracing247 Posted November 2, 2012 Author Report Posted November 2, 2012 Good lookin CRF, I had an X that was a beast, but too heavy for me. She was a BEAST on single track trails and I should have done some hair scrambles with it: I'd redo all 4 seats with Beryllium coppers if it were me. You can upgrade to Ti valves as well. thanks!, idk if my seats are bad enough to justify replacing them, i'm pretty sure i should be fine with just getting them reseated. and Ti valves are expensive O.o at least being a college student right now lol the head honestly looks really good, it's just one valve leaks when i used water to test it. would maybe just getting stock pair of intake valves and then reseating those two on the head seem like an ok approach? also another thing to note, all my valves were in check. except one i think was barely too big, if i'm remembering right. like 0.01mm out of tolerance or so if i'm thinking right. edit: oh also speaking of hare scrambles, im actually trying to get m bike fixed so i can do my first poker run in march with my friend who's actually on here a bit. and you should of done one! ~ If it was easy, everybody would be doing it ~
scoobywrx05 Posted November 2, 2012 Report Posted November 2, 2012 By the sounds of your description you have a bent valve. Idk how much it's leaking so I can't tell you if it can be ground or not. If it's a stock steel valve it can be ground at any machine shop to true it back up which is the cheapest route unless you can find a good deal on some valves. Stay away from ti valves go with ss if you're going to or need to replace it. Yeah the ti are lighter weight but they bend easier than ss valves. If you have the funds I'd do them all if you're already in there.
Tarball Posted November 2, 2012 Report Posted November 2, 2012 Did you lap the valves when you put them in ? I would look at that first. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
revoracing247 Posted November 3, 2012 Author Report Posted November 3, 2012 Did you lap the valves when you put them in ? I would look at that first. i looked at that but i really don't know if that'd be a god choice at least for a bike i race and stuff. the reason im thinking that is because when you get the valve seats cut from a machine they cut the head 1 degree different then the valve so that as it wears it has room to wear down on and still keep a tight seal. but when you lap the valves it just grinds the same seat angle and stuff on both the valve and head and that's fine i've heard for lawn mowers and stuff but not so much for more performance engines and stuff. but i could be wrong. ~ If it was easy, everybody would be doing it ~
lifted_silverado Posted November 3, 2012 Report Posted November 3, 2012 Stay away from TI valves for sure, every valve i replaced in my quad I lapped the valves and seats, not a ton but enough to knock down any rigid areas and seat the new valves. Is it the valve seat an not the actual valve cupping over? Everythings in the attic or garage since the truck was sold last year. New build should be coming soon in a dodge cummins
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.