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Electrical advice: 200a enough?


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I'm gonna be running a saz4500d and I have 2 runs of 0 from an optima yellow, 200a alt and 2 xs 3400s in back.

The stereo shop by me has a Tahoe w 2 200a alts (idk the brand) on 2 kicker 2500s w a kinetic up front, 1 run of 0 back, 2 kinetics in back and 3 caps (not sure why) and they said they drop to like 10.9.

Making me question my own setup, not sure if they're 1 ohm or .5 or what but the current draw is horrible in that thing, not tryin to deal w the same thing.

Input/advice

150.1 @ 38hz142.3 @ 20hz (windows down)Only 2 batteries

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sundown amps are more efficient than kicker amps so you have the advantage there but you will still see a heavy voltage drop. for example.... i have a DD-m2 amp (1700w rms) that i have wired to .5 ohm, a 200a tenney alt, 2 C&D 52ah batts, and 2 runs of 1/0 cable from a stock battery with big 3 upgrade. i also have around 600w rms for my door speakers, so thats around 2300 - 2500w of draw and i drop to 13.3v on most songs and down to 12.8v on anything lower than 30hz.

2000 Dodge Durango

Subs - (2) SKAR VVX 15 D2's

Box - 7.2 ft^3 @ 33hz, 120 in of port

Sub amp - Digital Designs M2 @ .5 ohm

Mids + Highs - PRV Audio

Mids + Highs amp - Hifonics 2000.4

Headunit - Alpine CDE-100

Equalizer - Clarion EQS746

Batteries - Mopar group 27 + (2) C&D 52ah

Wiring - 1/0 BIG 3, (2) runs 1/0

Alternator - Singer 250A

147.79 dB @ 35hz - burp - sealed on dash

147.47 dB @ 35hz - music - sealed on dash

YOUTUBE: http://www.youtube.com/user/321slapinBass/videos

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you really want a bigger alt (or 2) in there, swapping the 3400s for 3100s wouldnt hurt either.

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

Build Log

If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD

 
Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
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I would install your planned setup, and see how your voltage responds. If youre happy with your lack of drop, youre good. If you have too much drop, then throw in another batt.

Do you already have the equipment?

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

My Official Feedback Thread

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2500w does not equal 4500w. thats virtually twice the current draw.

2 2500's ;)

 

'01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log
2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log

On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said:

Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult.

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sundown amps are more efficient than kicker amps so you have the advantage there but you will still see a heavy voltage drop. for example.... i have a DD-m2 amp (1700w rms) that i have wired to .5 ohm, a 200a tenney alt, 2 C&D 52ah batts, and 2 runs of 1/0 cable from a stock battery with big 3 upgrade. i also have around 600w rms for my door speakers, so thats around 2300 - 2500w of draw and i drop to 13.3v on most songs and down to 12.8v on anything lower than 30hz.

2500w does not equal 4500w. thats virtually twice the current draw.

2 2500's ;)

I think he's responding to this guy.

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

Build Log

If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD

 
Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
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Share on other sites

sundown amps are more efficient than kicker amps so you have the advantage there but you will still see a heavy voltage drop. for example.... i have a DD-m2 amp (1700w rms) that i have wired to .5 ohm, a 200a tenney alt, 2 C&D 52ah batts, and 2 runs of 1/0 cable from a stock battery with big 3 upgrade. i also have around 600w rms for my door speakers, so thats around 2300 - 2500w of draw and i drop to 13.3v on most songs and down to 12.8v on anything lower than 30hz.

2500w does not equal 4500w. thats virtually twice the current draw.

2 2500's ;)

I think he's responding to this guy.

Probably. Reading>me

 

'01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log
2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log

On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said:

Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult.

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I'll have to do that, just kind of running out of flow atm lol.

I have everything but my subs, >21 day build time so truthfully I have no fn clue when they'll be here :/

Also a soundstream 4.400 for mids but it draws like NO current so I should be good on that.

And as far as kicker amps I figured they were less efficient, I ran a jl 500.1 class a amp that I ha in my gfs car and it dimmed the lights like CRAZY where as my alpine mrp2000 (@4 ohms around 1300w) has nowhere near the same effect. I don't have the equipment to clamp voltage so the lights is all I'm basing it off of

150.1 @ 38hz142.3 @ 20hz (windows down)Only 2 batteries

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