IH8PunkRok Posted February 3, 2014 Report Posted February 3, 2014 expanded metal shouldn't make noise. I was going to use some myself. Just make sure the metal part is as thin as you can get. more air less metal and you are good -Matt2005 Dodge Magnum RTJVC KD-AVX1 2 PPI S580.2 Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters PRV 8MB450s Audio Legion 3500.1D 2 RE MT 18s 360 ah LiFePO4 BatterySHCA 2/0 155.2 @ 29 hzKicker CVR 15's buildDD 3512e buildMini T-Line Build(6) 8s BuildNightshade 15s Wall BuildMagnum AB XFL 12s BuildNewest Magnum Build
Borris The Blade Posted February 3, 2014 Report Posted February 3, 2014 Good to see your secret plans are coming together. Should simplify things a bit. At first look your list don't look so bad, but as I scroll down I was like damn thats alot to get done. It's like rubbing your wiener up against a sheep.
elflako17 Posted February 3, 2014 Report Posted February 3, 2014 Ok I just pm'd you. I was originally going to use those too. Glad I didn't now, cause it'd have been a horribly tight fit. I could've made it work, yes, but it would've looked jammed in there. I like how these came out. WE'll talk man. Gonna be a bit before I'm ready to do anything. Just about off folks. Gonna run a couple errands and head home and do something! Not sure what, but I'll do something. lol for sure man and the reason why i am gonna use them is because of the carbon fiber look plus my door the outer grill is the same size as 8 inch speaker 2010 Mazda 3 *Rebuild Time* Subs - (2) AA Mayhems 12's Sub amp - (1) Populus Audio TPA 6500 Headunit - Pioneer App Radio 2 Batteries - XS Power (1) D3100 up front | 6 XP950 rear Wire - Sky High 1/0 Gauge wires and RCA's and steve's VM1 Alternator - Singer 260 Externally Regulated Front Stage: (2) PRV Audio 10W650A (4) PRV Audio 8MR500-PhP-4 (4) DS Bullet Tweets | (2) 6.5 Components (Rear doors) Mids & high Amp : (2) Populus Audio 100.4 Processor: Rockford 3sixty.3 The Build Log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/175922-2010-mazda-3-2-aa-mayhems-12-pg14-new-video/page-11
walwalka Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 I'm more excited to see this build finished than the new amp I just put in mine today!! Amazing work as always scooter!! 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin
evermaxx Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 Thanks for the great deal on the amps bro. I'll have my build up by March Team Subsonic Lows Get your garbage EMF products of my amp bitch Man....it makes a nice work bench
scooter99 Posted February 4, 2014 Author Report Posted February 4, 2014 Thanks guys. Yeah it's a longer list than I thought. But partially my own fault since I threw the doors in there. I did go out and put the baffle in though. There's between 90-100 3" screws all around it into the enclosure body. Hopefully that's enough. So subs are next to go in, but I had to do kid duties tonight cause my wife isn't home from work till later. She had to work ot. So I should have those in tomorrow night, and hopefully they will be wired up and the amps wired up by the weekend. Sooo much to do. We'll just have to see what happens. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
scooter99 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Posted February 5, 2014 Well damn it guys. I went to load the subs tonight, and it's a no go. I forgot that these subs have a direct lead, which is great, but it's short cables, and I don't want to splice. So I have to figure out how to desolder these and solder the new SHCA 8ga on to them. I did manage to get some other stuff done. SO I guess it wasn't a total loss. We'll see if I can get anything done tomorrow. Man this hill is getting steep!! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
goodvibez Posted February 5, 2014 Report Posted February 5, 2014 Are the leads too short to do threaded rod/bolts on the box? I'm not sure if you consider that splicing, but I guess the best would just be strait to the amps. I only bring that up because thats the rout I'm taking when wiring my subs up. Good luck! Funny how the people who have a louder system than you will usually give you a compliment about your setup because they know how much blood, sweat, time, and money you put into it. The people who criticize or try and one up you....have a p.o.s to no system at all and will tell you all about this "other" guys system! Saddley I'm sure if I meet this "other" guy...he will probably tell me he thinks your just as annoying as I think you are! I'm not compensating, just proud of fabricating! My build log: 10k center console with 4 DC Audio XL 10's powered by 2 DC Audio 5.0k amps 5 xs batteries and dual DC Power 300xps alts http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169404-goodvibez-04-dmax-10k-center-console-w4-xl-10s-custom-5ksit-plays/page-19
scooter99 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Posted February 5, 2014 No. The spot where I want to put the rods and terminals, is about 8" away from the end. I'm checking into options now. I'll get it figured out. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
RossGo Posted February 5, 2014 Report Posted February 5, 2014 They make copper crimp connectors with integrated heat shrink surrounds. I know this is a splice, but it is a good temp solution, or permanent. Desoldering can be a pain. And a good connection of 8 gauge is more than enough to handle the power duties. I understand being particular, but I wouldn't let it hold up the build, especially when it can be so easily replaced later, if ever Yes I have a lot of stereo weight. I build for Smiles Per Gallon not Miles Per Gallon LOLZ My build - 1996 4Runner with 2 18s - 149+ in a sealed box (with radiators)
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