Captain Stupid Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 Thanks! 2006 Cadillac Escalade 2/3 drop on 28" wheels Two RE SX 18" subs RF T2500-1bdCP amp, 3531watts on birthsheet Custom carbon fiber sub box EVERYTHING else is stock, for now 149.4 @ 37hz, Termlab, dash, open window on two AQ3 18s all stock electrical, wired to .25 ohm on a RF T2500 148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500 147.8 @ 38hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on two RE SX 18s 146.4 @ 36hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on one RE SX 18 Link to my hack-built, stupid, carbon fiber wasting project.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/149946-carbon-fiber-box-update-1494db-37hz-on-tl/ http://gifsoup.com/NDM3MTc1MQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHirshAudio Posted December 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 Thanks! Im gonna change some things on my box/wall and ill be back with some pics in a couple days! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockford96 Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 I may be wrong but couldnt d2s on a monoblock only be wired to, .5 or 2 ohms i may be wrong please correct me if i am My setup, Digital Designs M80 3 Re audio 10's ported tuned to 36 hz Kenwood x-696 SHCA 0 gauge Polk audio coax running off hu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockford96 Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 Surprised that no one noticed, your subs can be wired to .5 ohm, 2 ohm, 8 ohm. didnt see this till after i posted the same thing My setup, Digital Designs M80 3 Re audio 10's ported tuned to 36 hz Kenwood x-696 SHCA 0 gauge Polk audio coax running off hu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-Fizzy Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 Keep your box the way it is. Got a TL close by? Start testing with your box, then shrink the volume, test, shrink, test etc. Keep testing and shrinking until you stop gaining. under construction I hate People with crappy primered cars rolling on hubcaps that are louder then me. u hate c-fizzy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 Whats the distance from the end of your port (inside the box) to the back surface of your wall ? CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHirshAudio Posted December 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2012 Keep your box the way it is. Got a TL close by? Start testing with your box, then shrink the volume, test, shrink, test etc. Keep testing and shrinking until you stop gaining. There is no TL close by :/ but its funny you say that because i had the exact same idea, i dont like how the inside of my box is shaped so i want to take up about 3 more cu ft on the inside of my box. I am getting lower and lower as i tune, listen, tune, listen and as my subs break in but i just got this feeling that it cant get as low as hard as i want them to because there is too many cubic feet on the inside of my box! (16.03 after displacement) when my subs only take 8 per for their maxium! This could be totally wrong, correct me if i am please. but should i start taking up some space on the inside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHirshAudio Posted December 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2012 Whats the distance from the end of your port (inside the box) to the back surface of your wall ? Like 3" thats another thing with the box i hate :/ since the back is an angled 45 when the port goes back is gets way closer to the 45 then i wanted but thats all the deeper i could make my box.. could this be restricting air flow to the port? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHirshAudio Posted December 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2012 I may be wrong but couldnt d2s on a monoblock only be wired to, .5 or 2 ohms i may be wrong please correct me if i am yeah i had them at 8 ohms for some stupid reason (wired series not parallel got to excited and needed to listen right away!) but now they are at .5 and i gained so much more.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockford96 Posted December 19, 2012 Report Share Posted December 19, 2012 I may be wrong but couldnt d2s on a monoblock only be wired to, .5 or 2 ohms i may be wrong please correct me if i am yeah i had them at 8 ohms for some stupid reason (wired series not parallel got to excited and needed to listen right away!) but now they are at .5 and i gained so much more.. awesome man glad it worked! My setup, Digital Designs M80 3 Re audio 10's ported tuned to 36 hz Kenwood x-696 SHCA 0 gauge Polk audio coax running off hu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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