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00 Durango V2.0 - tear down and design of new system...


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nice job on the trim panels! really cleans up an already awesome build!

2002 Honda CR-V
Alpine 9887

My Build

Rebuilding...

Second Skin Damp
4 DC XL 15's
2 DC 5ks
Singer 320 amp
6 cap banks
Sky High wire
2 VM-1's
OM-1

all under window line

Team DC Audio

Obama has a law he's trying to pass right now, trying to ban Leo for being a threat to children everywhere.



EDIT: Not in a JP kind of way.

I thought I was going to die from all the jizz filling my ears.

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Man,...

The doors could be open on this, with him going nuts, and it sounded GREAT 10 cars away (yeah fags, i was on the end, cuz i had nothing, suck it)

Even Laura commented on "why is his louder, but sounds "solid" she said"

I just looked at her and said, the kid did it right.......

Nice build...

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thanks guys, ive put a lot of time and money into it. its not the loudest but thats not the point for this build. i did get some numbers though, 143 at 41hz. not the best but we clamped the amp and having the amp at 2 ohms it rose to 5 and i was getting about 250 watts a sub... so looking at the power to output its impressive! I wired the amp to .5 today (so in theory after rise it should be around 600 watts a sub...) and my electrical seems fine with it and it hits even harder now! ill post when i know numbers...

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figured it out, got photobucket to work!

BB3D89DE-C7A3-42DE-8CED-028C68DED68C-754

Hey nice setup, i love the color theme you got going....mine is blue and black lol. The wiring is clean if you ever go up in power you might want to bypass the battery up front and run the power wires directly to the back from the alternator (Pos and Neg). That way you dont over stress the battery up front from running all the power directly threw it to get to the back. The reason being the battery up front (during the summer especially) is under a lot of thermal stress and in combination with high current draw can cause the battery to bloat. You will notice better results with charging also. Just some info

149.4 Db @ 30Hz Outlaw With One 15" Fi Team Sub, Trunk Build. !!!!!Hair Tricks!!!!!

Check Out The Build Log http://www.stevemead...0-4-and-t400-4/

Watch The Videos http://www.youtube.com/user/jcplaya3

sigpb.jpg

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figured it out, got photobucket to work!

BB3D89DE-C7A3-42DE-8CED-028C68DED68C-754

Hey nice setup, i love the color theme you got going....mine is blue and black lol. The wiring is clean if you ever go up in power you might want to bypass the battery up front and run the power wires directly to the back from the alternator (Pos and Neg). That way you dont over stress the battery up front from running all the power directly threw it to get to the back. The reason being the battery up front (during the summer especially) is under a lot of thermal stress and in combination with high current draw can cause the battery to bloat. You will notice better results with charging also. Just some info

that makes sense but not really, youre still pulling current from both sources since they are still connected and the alternator would give out long before the battery. i dont have any batteries in the back if thats what youre thinking, cuz that would make sense if that was the case.

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yeah box rise sucks, but hopefully with it wired to .5 ohms you will gain some output and reach that 150 your looking for.

2000 Dodge Durango

Subs - (2) SKAR VVX 15 D2's

Box - 7.2 ft^3 @ 33hz, 120 in of port

Sub amp - Digital Designs M2 @ .5 ohm

Mids + Highs - PRV Audio

Mids + Highs amp - Hifonics 2000.4

Headunit - Alpine CDE-100

Equalizer - Clarion EQS746

Batteries - Mopar group 27 + (2) C&D 52ah

Wiring - 1/0 BIG 3, (2) runs 1/0

Alternator - Singer 250A

147.79 dB @ 35hz - burp - sealed on dash

147.47 dB @ 35hz - music - sealed on dash

YOUTUBE: http://www.youtube.com/user/321slapinBass/videos

SKAR_468x60.jpgDD-1.jpg

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figured it out, got photobucket to work!

BB3D89DE-C7A3-42DE-8CED-028C68DED68C-754

Hey nice setup, i love the color theme you got going....mine is blue and black lol. The wiring is clean if you ever go up in power you might want to bypass the battery up front and run the power wires directly to the back from the alternator (Pos and Neg). That way you dont over stress the battery up front from running all the power directly threw it to get to the back. The reason being the battery up front (during the summer especially) is under a lot of thermal stress and in combination with high current draw can cause the battery to bloat. You will notice better results with charging also. Just some info

that makes sense but not really, youre still pulling current from both sources since they are still connected and the alternator would give out long before the battery. i dont have any batteries in the back if thats what youre thinking, cuz that would make sense if that was the case.

Yes they are all connected together but the flow of power can be routed different. i went threw the forum and i coulda swore you had batteries back there.......with 4 15's you should but then again you are running low power

149.4 Db @ 30Hz Outlaw With One 15" Fi Team Sub, Trunk Build. !!!!!Hair Tricks!!!!!

Check Out The Build Log http://www.stevemead...0-4-and-t400-4/

Watch The Videos http://www.youtube.com/user/jcplaya3

sigpb.jpg

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