Skullz Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 Rev the motor to keep it running cause you probably have a low charge on your battery and it is drawing a lot of power from your engine to try and charge it back up. As the battery becomes charged your idle will improve to the point it wont bounce around from trying to charge a weak battery. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLYentist Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 First off, make sure the starter is connected through a fusible link to the alternator. This terminal should be on the same post as the OE line from the battery positive. Next, without touching or modifying those OE connections, add your supplementary 1/0 lead from alt positive to battery positive. It is a good idea to fuse this link as well, within 18 inches of the alternator post. By doing this, you create a parallel connection between the alternator positive and the battery positive. Putting what we should all know about parallel circuits into practice, we know the resistance is greatly decreased. The resistance is so greatly decreased, that you should not worry about the original 12 or 10 gauge wire. It is doing more good than harm. Also, it is imperative that you finish what you started with the Big 3 before you really notice any changes. The link between the battery negative and the engine block post is just as important as the positive links from before. The engine block is the negative (low) source for the alternator, since it is so securely attached to it. Other than minimizing the resistance with soldering and clean connections, there is nothing electrical you can do. The problems may be with the alternator itself. Cables and wires almost never fail; the terminations do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moh.vze.com Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 It is a good idea to fuse this link as well, within 18 inches of the alternator post. I thought we were suppose to use it within 18 inch from the positive battery terminal? That's how I fused my wire going from positive battery to the positive alternator post. DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattc3366 Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 What brand alternator? subwoofers - two eclipse 88120s box - 3.4 cubes tuned to 32 hz amps - aq1200 and pheonix gold zx450 New build : 2 obsidian audio 15s same amp 6.1 cubic foot box tuned to 32 hz in a civic hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLYentist Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 It is a good idea to fuse this link as well, within 18 inches of the alternator post. I thought we were suppose to use it within 18 inch from the positive battery terminal? That's how I fused my wire going from positive battery to the positive alternator post. yeah, sorry. i knew i should have proof-read that post. make sure all fuses are within 18 inches of the standing power source, the battery. thanks moh. Cables and wires almost never fail; the terminations do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 you ADD ON with the big 3. you DO NOT replace. 200 amps of current isnt going to go through the stock wiring. some of it will, yeah, but not all of it. electricity takes the path of least resistance, which should be the 0 gauge you installed while doing the big 3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 What brand alternator? This ^^^ Changing the alternator shouldn't cause what's going on unless there is something wrong with the new alt. As stated above make sure you complete the Big 3 - it's called 3 for a reason. You have to upgrade all 3 wires. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knubs Posted December 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 the alternator is a 180amp powermax from ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/280954989993?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619 and the voltage only goes to 14v+ with the engine running. with it off the voltage is 12.2 if a different battery doesnt help i might just put my old alternator back on to see if that helps. as for the big 3, i wasn't officially doing the big three upgrade yet. i just ran the wire from the alternator since i was replacing the alternator anyways. Thanks for the input guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 The increased output of a HO alternator can burn up inferior stock wiring that was not designed to carry the increased flow of electricity. For your 700watt system that alt might be ok if you get it working properly. If you are trying to put any decent amp in that alt just wont cut it. Ebay alternators tend to replace some guts in the alt that give you a high end boost at the cost of low end output. Good thing it has a 30 day money back. Get your money and save up for a reputable alt. Thats my advice. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 ebay alts SUCK. enough said. return that piece of shit and get a real alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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