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horsepower estimate on 5.3l ls engine


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I'll happily take a 4L60/80 all day over a non OD outdated trans. You might as well suggest a Powerglide. High/low and done...

A 4L80 is COMPLETELY different than a 4L60.

Just because they're both a 4-speed, doesn't mean they're the same. and the price reflects that.

4L80 is, basically, a 400 with OD.

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the transmission came with the package,as for the rear end its a 12 bolt with positraction not sure on the gearing yet

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You guys act like you have never clogged a toilet and ran around the bathroom frantically hoping it don't overflow.

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I would be very suprised if you see anything over 200rwhp without major mods. The HP numbers you quoted in the original post were flywheel hp used by GM to make the engines seem stronger than they are. Look into going back with EFI, its so much easier to work with and you can dial in a consistent A/F so you can push the tune to the limit and still be safe. A good cam and stall converter can make it have great seat of the pants accelleration but you have a heavy car so pick your mods wisely. LS motors do love boost, I have a super charger on mine and it eats everything I can throw at it.

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my 5.3 in my truck with LT headers, cat delete, egr delete, electric fans and K&N CAI

Dyno jet dyno made 268 hp and 300 torque.

01 model LS motor truck version.

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DynoJets are notoriously high. They are a great tuning tool but not very accurate for numbers, and any good tuner can manipulate his dyno to show as high as he wants to make his customers happy with his work. Not saying that this is the case but that seems unreallistic with those mods. FYI my 5.3l with E-Fans and CAI and tune barely broke over 200rwhp on a dyno that is properly callibrated. Same dyno showed 740rwhp with the new engine and SC.

HP numbers are all great on paper but things like a stall converter can make smaller HP numbers feel stronger than they are.

2003 Ford F-150 Reg Cab layin body on 26's

2003 Tahoe 3/5 drop on 26's with a 408cid Supercharged engine.

2011 Camaro 2SS 2005 VW GTI Stage II ECU, CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, lowered 2" on some plastidipped 18's

2003 Hayabusa lowered, stretched, cams, nitrous and custom paint

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60E

F/I

4.8 convertor

Long tubes

A real tune, and i bet you see 290-300 wheel

The TC out of a 4.8 is a cool trick that really works while using oem parts.

Stock your setup would prob do 200-210 whp

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pull the heads off and port them. Its just the ancient push rod design, so you can actually work with it yourself. Then you can port it yourself with some time, a dremel, and some sandpaper. Also, if you arent doing a cam you could do 1.7 ratio rockers and push rods to get a little more out of it. They are both very cost effective and pull quite a bit of horsepower out of it. Also since you are pulling the heads off you could run thinner gaskets since you will have to replace the gaskets anyways, i think that will bump compression like .12. not much. Maybe mill the heads for a good comp boost?

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Pull the heads off and port them. Its just the ancient push rod design, so you can actually work with it yourself. Then you can port it yourself with some time, a dremel, and some sandpaper. Also, if you arent doing a cam you could do 1.7 ratio rockers and push rods to get a little more out of it. They are both very cost effective and pull quite a bit of horsepower out of it. Also since you are pulling the heads off you could run thinner gaskets since you will have to replace the gaskets anyways, i think that will bump compression like .12. not much. Maybe mill the heads for a good comp boost?

You are absolutely correct, LS motors love a good set of heads and milling the head will create higher compression but be careful about how high you go because you may end up requiring premium fuel so figure that cost into what you want to do. After porting the heads or getting a higher flowing set of heads get a big cam and a 3000 rpm or higher stall converter and this will throw down some good numbers. (LS motors love boost too)

2003 Ford F-150 Reg Cab layin body on 26's

2003 Tahoe 3/5 drop on 26's with a 408cid Supercharged engine.

2011 Camaro 2SS 2005 VW GTI Stage II ECU, CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, lowered 2" on some plastidipped 18's

2003 Hayabusa lowered, stretched, cams, nitrous and custom paint

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No ECU tune will be needed on a NON EFI motor, since there wont be an ECU, so throw Black Bear out. Engine is good for a solid 300 in my opinion. I'd get my power out of valve train if I were you, and breathing mods, air in, air out.

Why go with a turbo 400?!?!? You're wasting all that torque in my opinion. A 4L60E has a MUCH lower first gear ratio, like 3.5:1. You'll holeshot like a motherfucker with a 700R4 or 4L60E. That's just my opinion. What rear end and gear ratio will you be running?

i wouldnt run a 700r4 or a 4l60e not unless it would be heavily modded or use for a stock engine i wasnt planning on going to the track.. i went that rout on many of my cars to save on fuel and all it did was have burn clutches or broken core cases as they couldnt take the torq. the only time they worked for me was gutting it and using a beast sunshell and all high end clutch packs and top of the line shift kits that went up to the $150 price mark. so basically putting about 2k in one.. that engine will be around 225 hp due to the th400 and its heavy internals

and by the way.. there will be ecu tuning since it has individual coil pack per cylinder and no distributor so it needs the ecu to control the spark and timing.. the thing that will be a bitch to tune will be the carburetor since there is no way to make it throw the needed fuel, so in other words you cant tune the fuel curve on one.the best you can do is jet it and hope for the best . i say get rid of the intake and carb and run efi on it and boost it

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