BIG 3 DONE!!

[Cox]

I finally got around to it. It ain't pretty but it will do the job. It did help with lights dimming a little.

[DubNDodge]

Ha I did mine today too. Well, at least all the wires are made. Took forever to get exact measurements and figure out where to run wires.

[Cox]

Ha I did mine today too. Well, at least all the wires are made. Took forever to get exact measurements and figure out where to run wires.

It does take quite some time for something that you would think would be simple

[08tahoe]

Looks like you need to sand down a little more where the ground is connected, it should be shiny metal.

[snafu]

OK, I'll do my best to provide my constructive criticism without offending anyone, especially the OP. Here are the problems I see with this installation - and about 99% of all other DIY Big 3 Upgrade installs:

1. Connections to the body are poor:

a. it appears the hole in the eyelet at the bottom is too large so good contact with the metal cannot be achieved

b. all eyelets should be secured with lock washers, flat washers, and proper hardware

c. no star washers between the eyelet and the metal

d. nothing to prevent the bare metal from rusting

2. Cable terminations are poor:

a. it is difficult to tell how the eyelets are terminated on the cable, but the electrical tape looks to be an integral part of this - especially at the lug on the battery negative

b. eyelets are not tin plated

3. Point of commonality for the return path of the alternator, battery, and audio system has not been optimized.

4. Poor serviceability - removing the battery would be unnecessarily difficult

This kind of installation will begin degrading nearly instantly - lugs will oxidize, bare metal will rust, lug to metal connections will rapidly increase in resistance, etc. If the lugs are not terminated on the cables correctly, those terminations will also begin to break down. Weather, moisture, and current draw will each play a role in this.

It's hard to tell, but this looks like it may be a Honda. Regardless, the core support is a less than ideal place for your return path commonality. It's also difficult to tell, but if the top ground cable to the body goes to the engine block, that's really not helping.

Listen, I know - criticism is difficult to swallow. But, I would question the effectiveness of such an installation. Every single kit I build and sell delivers the EXACT results you guys are seeking. Am I doing a poor job of marketing that? Is it really better to save a few bucks and end up with something that kinda sorta somewhat does the job OK?

Again, my comments are not intended to offend anyone. Sorry if they have.

[Cox]

OK, I'll do my best to provide my constructive criticism without offending anyone, especially the OP. Here are the problems I see with this installation - and about 99% of all other DIY Big 3 Upgrade installs:

1. Connections to the body are poor:

a. it appears the hole in the eyelet at the bottom is too large so good contact with the metal cannot be achieved

b. all eyelets should be secured with lock washers, flat washers, and proper hardware

c. no star washers between the eyelet and the metal

d. nothing to prevent the bare metal from rusting

2. Cable terminations are poor:

a. it is difficult to tell how the eyelets are terminated on the cable, but the electrical tape looks to be an integral part of this - especially at the lug on the battery negative

b. eyelets are not tin plated

3. Point of commonality for the return path of the alternator, battery, and audio system has not been optimized.

4. Poor serviceability - removing the battery would be unnecessarily difficult

This kind of installation will begin degrading nearly instantly - lugs will oxidize, bare metal will rust, lug to metal connections will rapidly increase in resistance, etc. If the lugs are not terminated on the cables correctly, those terminations will also begin to break down. Weather, moisture, and current draw will each play a role in this.

It's hard to tell, but this looks like it may be a Honda. Regardless, the core support is a less than ideal place for your return path commonality. It's also difficult to tell, but if the top ground cable to the body goes to the engine block, that's really not helping.

Listen, I know - criticism is difficult to swallow. But, I would question the effectiveness of such an installation. Every single kit I build and sell delivers the EXACT results you guys are seeking. Am I doing a poor job of marketing that? Is it really better to save a few bucks and end up with something that kinda sorta somewhat does the job OK?

Again, my comments are not intended to offend anyone. Sorry if they have.

Thank you the criticsm but most of what you stated is obvious common sense. If I have it the way I do it's for a reason, such as the eyes being to big. The nearest hardware store is a good 30 minutes away and I haven't picked any washers up. Not using common locations goes along with that. I didn't have a bolt that both terminal rings or lugs could fit on. Thanks for the help though.

Edit. However at the time I was doing this it was dark and I didn't realize the body connected right there so I fixed that and put the two grounds in the same spot ( the lower in this picture ) and fixed the washer problem and just used the lug with the smaller eye on top.

[Carbon]

OK, I'll do my best to provide my constructive criticism without offending anyone, especially the OP. Here are the problems I see with this installation - and about 99% of all other DIY Big 3 Upgrade installs:

1. Connections to the body are poor:

a. it appears the hole in the eyelet at the bottom is too large so good contact with the metal cannot be achieved

b. all eyelets should be secured with lock washers, flat washers, and proper hardware

c. no star washers between the eyelet and the metal

d. nothing to prevent the bare metal from rusting

2. Cable terminations are poor:

a. it is difficult to tell how the eyelets are terminated on the cable, but the electrical tape looks to be an integral part of this - especially at the lug on the battery negative

b. eyelets are not tin plated

3. Point of commonality for the return path of the alternator, battery, and audio system has not been optimized.

4. Poor serviceability - removing the battery would be unnecessarily difficult

This kind of installation will begin degrading nearly instantly - lugs will oxidize, bare metal will rust, lug to metal connections will rapidly increase in resistance, etc. If the lugs are not terminated on the cables correctly, those terminations will also begin to break down. Weather, moisture, and current draw will each play a role in this.

It's hard to tell, but this looks like it may be a Honda. Regardless, the core support is a less than ideal place for your return path commonality. It's also difficult to tell, but if the top ground cable to the body goes to the engine block, that's really not helping.

Listen, I know - criticism is difficult to swallow. But, I would question the effectiveness of such an installation. Every single kit I build and sell delivers the EXACT results you guys are seeking. Am I doing a poor job of marketing that? Is it really better to save a few bucks and end up with something that kinda sorta somewhat does the job OK?

Again, my comments are not intended to offend anyone. Sorry if they have.

Thanks for the great post, I'm printing this for my 2013 build tips folder

[Kyblack76]

I'd take all and everything Tony says straight to heart.

Just me.

[evermaxx]

So with what Tony said, what all needs to be fixed?

[Carbon]

So with what Tony said, what all needs to be fixed?

Read what he wrote, Its very clear and well written.