Hotdog Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 yep..same thing that I just went through. Dead cell Just replaced my battery 30 min ago and all is well. (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt14 Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 When I try to start the car I get absolutely nothing. No click crank nothing. I put my charger on the battery and it shows it's good. I'm going to pull all of my fuseable links tomorrow and check them. I was told its most likely one of them. And Kranny, when I have the key in acc, my seatbelt light is on (normal), when I turn it to on, that light goes off and my battery light comes on (not normal), when I try to start it the light stays on. I have headlights and such, but have lost my power windows, locks, etc. Does the warning lights that normally come on when turning the ignition to #2 position come on now? Sound like you have a faulty ignition switch. The headlight switch does not need the ign switch to be on in order to work. Makes sense that power windows are inop, but not the door locks. Let me look on alldata at the wiring diagram and see if i can come up with anything 2006 GMC YukonPioneer HU SHCA ran throughout Crescendo BC3500 One 18 AA Mayhem in a 4th order ZED Levithian 6 channel Rainbow Dual 6.5 comps ran Activehttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/155628-matt14s-yukon-mayhem-in-a-4th-ordernew-amps-and-bats/page-3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 I would try to jump the starter selenoid at the starter. I'm not familiar with the starter setup on this car though. On my chevy there is a small wire that, when powered, activates the starter. The ignition switch powers the wire. I'd take a small pocket screwdriver or something and jump the terminal from the big wire going into the starter to that small terminal. Make sure your key is out of the ignition - unless you want to see if the car will start. This will tell you several things: If you get nothing or the starter barely turns then you have a power source problem (battery, fusable link) or the starter itself. If the starter turns no problem then you have a blown fuse, relay or bad ignition switch. If you get sparks and shit then you grounded the positive wire somewhere - try again. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gally Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 HAD once a problem like this just get a charger on it for the night and it should work it worked for me 2010 Chevrolet Cruze Radio --- pioneer mvh-200vbt Front/back --- alpine type s 6.5" Sub Control --- Pac LC1 Sub Amp --- GZPA 1.4K Sub --- GZNW 15XSPL D1 Battery - GZBP 12.2500X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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