99blazer Posted January 23, 2013 Report Posted January 23, 2013 This may sound stupid but would it be ok to charge a battery through a 3inch peice of 0 gauge. heres why i ask because i have tsnuami battery terminals and my clamps arent big enough to go around it and the only way to take the battery terminal off to get to the post is take the whole battery out which is a bitch considering its too big for where its at and i was thinking of just putting a little peice of 0 gauge in one of the terminals far enough out so i could get the clamp on it. would that be an issue or no 08 Ford F150
08tahoe Posted January 23, 2013 Report Posted January 23, 2013 That'll work. I see no issues with doing that.
SnowDrifter Posted January 23, 2013 Report Posted January 23, 2013 That's fine. Just make sure there is no change the positive piece can touch anything else ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
Gladski462 Posted January 23, 2013 Report Posted January 23, 2013 Would be fine to do so, a lot easier than taking the battery out. 08' Grand Cherokee (2) DC Lvl 4 12's
Guest Posted January 23, 2013 Report Posted January 23, 2013 That's fine. Just make sure there is no change the positive piece can touch anything else x2. this cant be stressed enough. if that 0 gauge touches ANYTHING metal (even a single tiny strand) aside from the positive terminal on the battery and the + clamp on the charger, sparks WILL fly and electronics may get damaged/fubar'd.
99blazer Posted January 23, 2013 Author Report Posted January 23, 2013 well i ghetto rigged my fuse holder for the positve side and my positive side is only 2inchs so its all good 08 Ford F150
Tarball Posted January 24, 2013 Report Posted January 24, 2013 Pics would be helpful, but I would personally go with bigger clamps to solve the issue rather than having a bare positive terminal dangling 3 inches from the battery. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
Carbon Posted January 24, 2013 Report Posted January 24, 2013 If you do this, wrap a shop cloth or rag around the whole (+) assembly and clamp so your not touching anything.
Tarball Posted January 24, 2013 Report Posted January 24, 2013 If you do this, wrap a shop cloth or rag around the whole (+) assembly and clamp so your not touching anything. A cloth would be better than nothing but touch that cloth with a grounded wrench and see what happens. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
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