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If you want a nice end result with Vht nightshades its not about the nightshades its about the clear coat!! clear the shit out of them then wet sand starting from 800 grit up to at least 1500 grit trizac 3000 grit is best!!! apply rubbing compound and if you have a rubbing wheel rub them out but be carefull not to burn through the clear!!!!!!

"ALways keep the wheel flat as possible and in motion"

Walled 2002 buick century A.K.A "Betty sue"

polk 5 1/2 front doors

4 3in pillar speakers

DD 3518's

AQ 3500 v2

90ft of 0/1 ga

tuned to 40hz

:build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/162721-buick-built-in-trunk-fi-sp4-hifonics-2400/

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If you want a nice end result with Vht nightshades its not about the nightshades its about the clear coat!! clear the shit out of them then wet sand starting from 800 grit up to at least 1500 grit trizac 3000 grit is best!!! apply rubbing compound and if you have a rubbing wheel rub them out but be carefull not to burn through the clear!!!!!!

Thank you for the advice, I know my way around a buffer. I've got a painter for a father and my ex brother in law was a great painter as well. I know how to prep and I know how to finish.

"ALways keep the wheel flat as possible and in motion"

Thank you for the advice, I know my way around a buffer. I've got a painter for a father and my ex brother in law was a great painter as well. I know how to prep and I know how to finish. Im not without skills so I've got this. I really just was looking for a product, I don't so much need the "how to" on techniques, I've got those.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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^^^ purple-ish. Not FTW.

idk where you see purple but thats black

2010 Mazda 3

*Rebuild Time*

Subs - (2) AA Mayhems 12's
Sub amp - (1) Populus Audio TPA 6500
Headunit - Pioneer App Radio 2

Batteries - XS Power (1) D3100 up front | 6 XP950 rear

Wire - Sky High 1/0 Gauge wires and RCA's and steve's VM1

Alternator - Singer 260 Externally Regulated

Front Stage: (2) PRV Audio 10W650A (4) PRV Audio 8MR500-PhP-4 (4) DS Bullet Tweets | (2) 6.5 Components (Rear doors)

Mids & high Amp : (2) Populus Audio 100.4

Processor: Rockford 3sixty.3



The Build Log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/175922-2010-mazda-3-2-aa-mayhems-12-pg14-new-video/page-11

flakosignature1-1_zps0751010a.png

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^^^ purple-ish. Not FTW.

idk where you see purple but thats black

Could be just me but when the lights are on? Has a purple hue to it. Without the lights on, yeah, it looks jet black or whatnot. But turn on the lights, hit the brakes, do the reverse lights, whatnot... looks a little purple. not much, but just some.

Sheena = pedobear

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^^^ purple-ish. Not FTW.

idk where you see purple but thats black

Could be just me but when the lights are on? Has a purple hue to it. Without the lights on, yeah, it looks jet black or whatnot. But turn on the lights, hit the brakes, do the reverse lights, whatnot... looks a little purple. not much, but just some.

naw bro lol hahah it is red myb the picture makes it look like that?

2010 Mazda 3

*Rebuild Time*

Subs - (2) AA Mayhems 12's
Sub amp - (1) Populus Audio TPA 6500
Headunit - Pioneer App Radio 2

Batteries - XS Power (1) D3100 up front | 6 XP950 rear

Wire - Sky High 1/0 Gauge wires and RCA's and steve's VM1

Alternator - Singer 260 Externally Regulated

Front Stage: (2) PRV Audio 10W650A (4) PRV Audio 8MR500-PhP-4 (4) DS Bullet Tweets | (2) 6.5 Components (Rear doors)

Mids & high Amp : (2) Populus Audio 100.4

Processor: Rockford 3sixty.3



The Build Log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/175922-2010-mazda-3-2-aa-mayhems-12-pg14-new-video/page-11

flakosignature1-1_zps0751010a.png

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Ive used VHT Niteshades plenty of times, it takes a lot of work to make it look nice and glossy but its worth the work. For my mustang taillights i had to clear coat, then wet sand and buff the clear coat to get a nice shiny gloss. Was a ton of work but look really good.

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I don't mind putting the work into it, im sure the end product will be worth it. I think I may have to ditch the silver racing stripes though to really complete a murdered out look. Maybe go with flat black stripes? Just straight black truck like it was stock?

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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I second the idea of over reduced black. VHT Niteshades WILL crack over time. When it happens you'll have to sand it all off and start over. Just do it right the first time. You'll get MUCH better results by mixing >1% of black into an automotive clearcoat and then spraying it with a HVLP gun. I have tinted almost 20 cars this way. Way better than any product in a can. You can also get a darker result with more transparency and any spray can product can offer. That's just my $.02, take it for what it's worth...

Build In Progress!

2000 V6 Mustang

H/U - JVC KW-ADV64BT

8 - P3D212's / 14cu. ft. / 34hz

Front - T1675x2, PPS4-8x4, T1TSx4

Rear - T1675x2, T165x2

Sub Amps - T2500-1bdCPx2

Mids/Highs Amps - T600-4x2

3SIXTY.3 Signal Processor

51Ft. RF 1/0 Spool x 2

Excessive Amperage 300amp Alternator

VMAX CT2500 x 2

Optima Yellowtop

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I second the idea of over reduced black. VHT Niteshades WILL crack over time. When it happens you'll have to sand it all off and start over. Just do it right the first time. You'll get MUCH better results by mixing >1% of black into an automotive clearcoat and then spraying it with a HVLP gun. I have tinted almost 20 cars this way. Way better than any product in a can. You can also get a darker result with more transparency and any spray can product can offer. That's just my $.02, take it for what it's worth...

Yeah, I think this route may be best. Plus the consistency of shooting from a professional gun rather than rattle can is probably enough to steer me clear I know the VHT works, but I will have to do MUCH more work to finish them off then if I shoot it right the first time. I realize I still have to do surface prep with sanding, but the finish from an HVLP gun will be much nicer to begin with and will require much less manipulation.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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I second the idea of over reduced black. VHT Niteshades WILL crack over time. When it happens you'll have to sand it all off and start over. Just do it right the first time. You'll get MUCH better results by mixing >1% of black into an automotive clearcoat and then spraying it with a HVLP gun. I have tinted almost 20 cars this way. Way better than any product in a can. You can also get a darker result with more transparency and any spray can product can offer. That's just my $.02, take it for what it's worth...

Yeah, I think this route may be best. Plus the consistency of shooting from a professional gun rather than rattle can is probably enough to steer me clear I know the VHT works, but I will have to do MUCH more work to finish them off then if I shoot it right the first time. I realize I still have to do surface prep with sanding, but the finish from an HVLP gun will be much nicer to begin with and will require much less manipulation.

you can get just as good of a finish spraying VHT out of the can as you would spraying it out of a professional gun as long as you clearcoat it after with an actual gun, my lights are a perfect example of it, it's been 8 months so far and I have yet to get a single crack in it.

'93 Firebird Formula V8

H/U- Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X395

Mids/Highs Amp- Hifonics ZXI80.4

Wiring-KNU RCA's, Speaker Wire, And Two Runs Of Trystar 1/0

G34 Red Top and a 180amp Ford Alternator

www.youtube.com/TRTC360

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