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also im running the 3 right now off a RF1000.1bdcp at 2.66 ohms so i might be getting 250wts per sub and they still get down man

SONY XAV-701HD
RF power 400.4 RF power 1000bd

3 Sundown x8's d2
2004 f150 single cab
2 sets of components MB quart 6.5 onx (2 tweets 2 6.5 perdoor)
stock batt up fron
BIG 3


http://www.stevemead...-vid-pg-11-922/

http://www.youtube.c.../TheBigmescan74

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Alright, I'd like to keep the amp somewhere under 1000, I'm not sure if the subs really need 800 watts to be as loud as I want It was just an estimate. I plan on having a nice system but I'm going to pick away at it buying different pieces at different times and then installing once I have everything I need. I was thinking a Pioneer double din for the head unit, I still have no idea what I want for mids and highs though

My best advice would be to plan AND price everything for your entire build before you purchase anything. As was stated already, you will spend quite a bit more than you do on your subs, for everything else needed to complete your build correctly. Mine will end up being close to 6 times what I spent on my 18, just for everything else lol! Like I said it all adds up very quickly, especially the little things! Post up what you want out of your build and everything you "think" you need/should get to achieve your goal with your system. This board is full of helpfull people who are willing to help point you in the right direction. Also, spend some quality time not only searching for answers but also reading other members build logs and such. You'll be surprised at how much you'll learn, and how much you missed in your initial planning just by doing this lol! Best of luck!

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Thanks for the input guys, I Believe Im going to go with four two way door speakers for now that aren't amped just to save cash. I was looking at the AQ 3500.1 and I'm liking it, Would I have any problems if I wired the four 2 ohm subs down to a 1 ohm load so that they're all getting a little over 1k watts?

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If you set your gains properly, I don't see it being a huge issue. But that being said: How much power you can throw at something is all dependent on the user. You need to know when to turn it down and not push things too hard

I'd say biggest thing is your electrical though. Running a 4-5k amp will take some upgrades, that's for sure.

Plan on getting at least a 270a alt and a pair of group 31 batteries

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Yes I realize that I need to upgrade my electrical before anything, My order of purchases is going to go

>Headunit

>Necessary items for big 3 upgrade (battery/ies if needed)

>Door speakers

>amplifier

>subwoofers

>box

im running 3 at the moment in a sigle cab 04 f150....... unless you are short you might loose some leg room. im gonna try and run 4 off the rockford t2500 at 2ohms...click my build log and check and see what i have to give you a general idea.

I plan on mounting the subwoofers ontop of the box instead of facing the seat So the box will be about 10 or so inches wide (from the back of the cab)

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Yes I realize that I need to upgrade my electrical before anything, My order of purchases is going to go

>Necessary items for big 3 upgrade (battery/ies if needed)

Yup you will need batteries. Alt too

Expect to spend somewhere in the $1500 range on electrical

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Do you know what size alternator is on it now?

Headunit; anything Alpine with 4v preouts is a no brainer for me personally, Pioneer make some sweet units too...

Batteries; a favourite in the scene is the XS Power D3100, these are tried and tested

Wiring kit; avoid el-cheapo '10,000w' kits, stuff like Knukonceptz is cheap, very good and well worth the money.

Box; download Torres Box Calculator, this will let you play about with some box & port sizes.

Oh FYI, headunits only put out 18wrms at the most, if you don't buy a little 50-100w p/c amp, you will drown out your front speakers and have to budget it in a later date - trust me. Do it right first time SnowDrifter has given you some solid advice.

Something else, nobody has noticed sound proofing! To get the most from your mids & highs do the doors, back of the cab etc. You WILL get pissed at the sound of panels and stuff flexin like a biatch.

Check out some build logs so you can write a definitive list...

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I agree, I would definitely run your doors off an amp if you're planning on a ~4kw sub stage. Plus if you look around you'll see that you can get good 2/4ch amps for a fair price.

Don't forget to take into account what you're doing with your door speakers when concidering a head unit and amp, as their are many options available. Are you going 2-way comp, 3-way comp, individual pro audio speakers, do you want to run active or passive, do you want to use your amp/a processor/or the head unit to control your equalization/sound stage?

"Vitto" hit it on the head on the importance of proper sound deadening!

If you don't know everything you need for doing the Big3 I'd suggest checking out http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/. They have complete kits and from my research, great customer service.

I personally will be running Skyhigh wire. It's great wire, tru AWG, AWESOME customer service and a fantastic price point. I see a lot of builds on here with RF, Knu, Audio Technix and welding lead also. Any of these should serve you very well. Another thing to think about to save a little cash on your wiring is the use of CCA where you can. I am personally doubling up my front/back runs using (2 runs pos and neg) of 1/0 CCA, and using 1/0 OFC for my Big3 and all rear power runs to amps. I can do my CCA runs for 1/2 the price of OFC front to rear, and I still have a combined 500amp wire rating to feed my rear batt bank and amps. Just food for thought.

As for your box, during your design stage please dont forget about how your going to properly secure the enclosure to your vehicle! Also, Torres was mentioned already for actual dimensional design and tuning. If you don't have it already, also look into Sketchup. Its a great program to model and fine tune your box in 3D. Lets you see exactly what the finished product will be before building so you can make changes if need be without wasting money on ruined materials. Also, it seems obvious but decide how you're going to wire your subs... bolts through box, terminal cups, wires from subs just ran through a hole in the side of the box then sealed?

Just remember to think, research, plan...and then do it all over again lol, and you should be good.

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