need help finding a good circuit breaker for my car please help

[01VWGREENMACHINE]

I know and have found 200 amp circuit breakers but i want one that is 250 amp any help would be great!!

I did find Xscorpion but is it any good ?

http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/XScorpion-250-Amp-Circuit-Breaker-56p141.htm

was mainly looking for RF or Stinger.

thanks in advance for any help

[Wicks]

Why a circuit breaker and not a fuse?

Circuit breakers are great for AC (higher voltage, lower current) but not so much for DC (lower voltage, higher current).

The mechanical nature of the circuit breaker will tend to give you a bit of inline resistance which isn't good at higher current draws.

I understand the appeal of not having to replace multiple fuses by just resetting the breaker, but if you're having that many circuit problems then there's a bigger issue that you should address.

You also have to factor in that if the circuit breaker is disconnecting a circuit fault multiple times, then that will cause arcing between the switch terminals.

Especially when you're drawing hundreds of amps. The arcing will create more resistance which will result in much more voltage drop at the end of your power run.

I'm sure you've seen the small spark that you get when just connecting/disconnecting your battery cables? That's just a few amps, imagine hundreds...

[01VWGREENMACHINE]

not replacing a fuse i wanted to make an easy connect disconnect switch so when im working on the system. thats all

[P4killer_]

Pulling the fuse is easy is it not? Unless you have the ring terminal kind then lmao I feel your pain. Get the set screw kind.

But I always read that the circuit breaker kind will work but over multiple resets over time will become less reliable.. or weaken and blow more frequently/ for no reason. I've never blown a power wire or really any amp fuse knock on wood yet so in that case a circuit breaker style should be ok imo.

[01VWGREENMACHINE]

I guess ill be sticking with a ANL Fuse.

another question.

I want to change the direction of my 1/0 wiring to my back batt.

Instead of going through my front batt I would like to directly connect my rear batt to the front batt.

I have included illustration below of my current wiring diagram and possible diagrams.

Current setup Image 1

With change circled in green Image 2

with coupler instead of ANL fuse Image 3

OR Image 4

let me know what image you recomend

[Wicks]

You say you want to connect your front and rear batteries directly but that's what your first image already shows.

Instead of going through my front batt I would like to directly connect my rear batt to the front batt.

Sounds like you want to connect the rear battery directly to your alternator.

Really any of these configurations will work, given what you're running and the fact that you have 0ga.

Why the 3rd fuse/coupler in the middle of your power run in Images 2 and 3?

I would stay away from that as they are not necessary and will only add resistance in your electrical current path.

Also you really don't need the fuse between the alternator and front battery. Nothing wrong with being extra safe but there is little chance for that wire to short out on anything as long as its installed correctly. You do want at least one fuse at the start and end of the power run. Those fuses protect the wire in case of a short along the car (pinched wire in a car accident).

You should also split up the fuse in the rear that's feeding both your amps (one fuse for each amp).

by combining them you have to increase the fuse rating to account for both amps. This lessens the protection in case of an amplifier fault.

The fuses at the amps are there in case the amp has an internal fault and starts drawing large amounts of current.

Therefore you want the fuse to blow right above what the amp would normally draw. By doing this you reduce the possible damage inside the amp, making it more "repairable" and also you reduce the chance of a fire.

As far as which configuration, I would probably recommend Image2, but without the middle fuse (and addressing the other fuse issues above).

Another thing to factor in is wire length.

If you have to use lots extra cable to make Image2 happen then you may not be gaining anything either.

Which ever configuration uses the shortest cable runs is also something to consider.

Ideally you'd want to map out all your power sources (alternator/batteries) and your loads (batteries/amps).

Then add up what current will result in each wire and make sure that the wire gauge is acceptable.

[01VWGREENMACHINE]

I meant to say connect each batt to the alt lol a bit tired this morning.

as far as adding the coupler or Fuse is i need to extend the wire another 5 feet from where it goes into the second fuse

ill get a smaller fuse for the 400.4 as well

[ric006]

hes scared of the spark

[727Designs]

http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/XScorpion-250-Amp-Circuit-Breaker-56p141.htm
Stinger/SoundQuest make them also, not sure why Darvex doesn't carry them. We have some on the shelf at the shop.

SoundQuest part # is SQCB250 but I'm not having any luck finding them online.