purplesyrup Posted March 12, 2013 Report Posted March 12, 2013 I am trying to figure out how to battle my box (barrel) rise issue. My thoughts, right now i'm running a D2, wired at 1 ohm, and I my rise is at 4-5 ohms, so as of now I am only capable of getting around 1k out of my amp due to the extremely high rise. I plan on upgrading my alt, and adding batteries, but with my rise, i am still in a weird situation that, because the impedance is so hi, even with proper electrical, I wont see nearly 1/4 of my amps full power. Now usually it would be about just building another box, but this is not an option as im sure you can understand. Now here is what im thinking, If I get a D 0.7 sub, and wire it to .35 ohms to help offset the rise, wouldn't that help get my rise down in the 1-2 ohm area? does this make sense? any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. As of now, the only option I see to get the impedance near where it needs to be on my current d2 would be to strap 2 bc3500s on each voicecoil, yes, 4 total, and they would each see about 2-2.5 ohms, LOL but that would just be crazy. But I do like crazy. But with having to start a build in my other car, I dont see that happening any time soon. Thanks guys
kirill007 Posted March 12, 2013 Report Posted March 12, 2013 If you wire it down to .33ohms you won't rise to 1-2 ohm all the time, only at a certain frequency. Ohm rise isn't a constant, nor a exponential function, it's a graph with 2 peaks. Just fill the box and make the port bigger.(= less rise) Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for.
purplesyrup Posted March 12, 2013 Author Report Posted March 12, 2013 If you wire it down to .33ohms you won't rise to 1-2 ohm all the time, only at a certain frequency. Ohm rise isn't a constant, nor a exponential function, it's a graph with 2 peaks. Just fill the box and make the port bigger.(= less rise) thats the issue though, I can test and fill the box, but I cant do anything with the port EDIT: The port is as big as I can make it
ALPINE408 Posted March 12, 2013 Report Posted March 12, 2013 I just use big amps like 7ks and up so I don't have worry or care about box rise Have you ever had your woofers blown?
purplesyrup Posted March 12, 2013 Author Report Posted March 12, 2013 Now dont get me wrong, it is very loud and sounds excellant, I would just like to see the full power out of my amp, I guess if I just strapped another bc3500 It would have me closer to the full power the 1 is rated at, but I dont know
ALPINE408 Posted March 12, 2013 Report Posted March 12, 2013 Adding an amp should spit the rise between the amps so you would have less ohn rise right there per amp For your .33 idea you said your are at 1 ohm rising to 4 you have 4 times the rise so .33 times 4 should be where your max rise would be the only problem with this is everytime the music stops your dropping back to .33 ohms also otther tones of the song will have a lot less rise so you could be playing well below 1 ohm on music and not know it... I do not recomend this at all even more so if you don't have the electrical to back it up your amp won't liike you for it ether Have you ever had your woofers blown?
purplesyrup Posted March 12, 2013 Author Report Posted March 12, 2013 /\/\ Electrical will be proper before I make any moves i listed above. With what you explained, Seems the simplest solution would be to just strap another bc3500d
Nikitaaa Posted March 12, 2013 Report Posted March 12, 2013 I wish I was in your position. Currently I'm wired to 1 ohm rising to 2-3 ohms on 30-40hz frequencies. If I had more rise I could pull off .25 ohm on ALL frequencies. (Amp currently protects 40-60hz full tilt at .25 but stable 20-40) There is really no way for you to deal with so much rise besides; 1) new box (don't do it- barrel is awesome) 2) different coil config then run at .33 ( If you're going to do this make SURE you know exactly what your rising to on ALL frequencies) 3) trail and error with current box/ cabin/ amp.(make sure you have a true RMS clamp and multi meter) change things suck as box space, tuning, etc. Good luck! 2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX (4) Sundown Audio X-8's (2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's (3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries (1) Mechman 240 3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunkTEAM NWSPLBest termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 classBest termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class155db outlaw
bkolfo4 Posted March 13, 2013 Report Posted March 13, 2013 Are you burping or playing music? Did you measure the impedance at all frequencies? Can your subs REALLY handle that much more power? Here is some info I posted trying to explain some of this: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/163112-fi-voice-coils/#entry2366580 Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.
SnowDrifter Posted March 13, 2013 Report Posted March 13, 2013 Your rise could look like this. Depending on the frequency, it may rise a lot or a little. Another option is to get amps that do power after rise, like the Rockford BDCP or JL audio HD series ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
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