z3nor Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 Hey Guys, Before I start I want to thank everybody for taking the time to check this out. I hate resorting to populating a forum with my problems but in this case, I seem to be at a loss. I have searched both the forum and Google tirelessly with no reward so I decided to make this account strictly for this issue because I feel this place has the most educated users. I apologize in advance, I don't know how much I'll be able to contribute to this forum. Let it be known that I have found others with my problem that have participated in lengthy discussion about this issue with no results. However, I feel the host wasn't willing to go to the full extent that I am to solve this issue. I'll work with y'all if you work with me. THE PROBLEM: Whether I am idling or driving, my subwoofers (both) will briefly cut out on powerful bass notes. The problem can be fixed (sorta) if I lower the bass level on my LOC. While this may be a temporary fix, I feel it is just a band-aid to a bigger issue. The amplifier does not go into protect mode, nor does it turn off. The LOC does not display [MAX SIGNAL]. The bass from the speakers continues to play. The issue is isolated at the woofer setup. My gain on the amp is at 0 as well as my bass boost. The subwoofers play respectably but my old Type R's were more impressive (laughable, I know). The excursion of the woofers is not the least bit concerning so I know they aren't being overpowered. They should have a lot more power in them. *Also, I previously had a single 1 OHM DVC woofer in my vehicle that had the same issue. The subwoofers are not bad, I know that much. MY SETUP: Amplifier - Alpine MRP M2000 (Stable at 2 OHMS) / Woofers - 12" FI SSD 2 OHM DVC x2 / LOC - AudioControl LC2 / Wiring - 0 Gauge KnuKonceptz / Headunit - Stock / Speakers - Stock / Battery - Stock / Alternator - Stock / Big 3 - No I have it grounded to the trunk brace (not directly the frame but it's solid and sanded). I will not resort to a capacitor because I don't believe in them. A new battery and the Big 3 could help but others I've seen with this issue have tried both to no avail. I hope I haven't left anything out. I'm determined to kill this issue in this thread. Thanks again for all the help. If you guys need more info/pics/videos just let me know. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z3nor Posted March 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 The M2000 at 2 OHMs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 There is no way a pair of Type R's are stomping out some SSD's. Something is not right in the sentence. Check your ground, make sure its not loose. Check for any type of loosing connection, and I meany any. RCA, Speaker, positive run. Shit pull the sub out and make sure there are no wires coming out of the connectors and are shaking enough at high volumes to arc to something and create a quick short. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z3nor Posted March 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 GhostRider... I'll try to get one up stat. Thanks for taking the time to look and responding so quickly. Anybody else have any ideas...? It's a Mazda6 and it happens on CD, Radio, MP3, etc. Not sure if that makes any difference whatsoever. ---------------------------------------- RootBeer... The Type R's played remarkably for that caliber, in their defense . But they were sealed, these are ported, and they're still getting outgunned?! I have checked RCAs, ground is tight, power, fuses... All good. Speaker wires - good. You bring forth a good point about inside the box but I've played them in free-air and they still do it. It's some bull**** I tell ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noel989 Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 Do the other people have stock head unit too? I'd start by getting a better signal to the amp Like A head unit Build Log - http://www.stevemead...-cruiser-el-pt/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 Also welcome to the forums. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noel989 Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 Do the other people have stock head unit too? I'd start by getting a better signal to the amp Like A head unit do a direct conect first instead its cheaper like 4$ at most and not everyone has the money for head units or maybe he wanted to look stock?? I understand I was their once when I wanted the stock look Theirs other ways to do it too that was just a suggestion Build Log - http://www.stevemead...-cruiser-el-pt/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z3nor Posted March 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 Hey guys, I do like the stock look... That was intentional. The AudioControl LC2 is supposed to amplify the signal to the Amp (if that makes sense). Its pre outs are 8.7V max signal to the amplifier. That outdoes most aftermarket headunits. What is direct-connect? I'm not familiar with the term... *Also, the others had aftermarket headunits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z3nor Posted March 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 GhostRider... Good idea, haven't tried that. I have the cables laying around so I'll give it a shot when the noise violation lifts in the morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russtezecustoms Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 Im with the guy up there that said somthing has to be loose. I would try at least moving the ground to a more solid part of the sub frame. Btw im running a lanzar opti pro clamping 1755 w on 2 re sxx d2 15 wired to. 5. Big 3-4 DOES make a difference with my setup i was getting a drop to 10.2 before and after it never gets below 12.4. I dont have any extra bats and still running stock 110 amp. This is all packed into a 2010 nissan versa with a stock h/u. I love living on the edge!!! Lol. It can be done you just have to be meticulious about the details. First thing i would do is move the ground and big 3-4. Good luck. I just wish i had a funny sig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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