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New Project - 7 Speaker Towers / Introduction To Forums


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Hello all. First time posting on these forums, so introductions are in order. My name is Michael, I'm 23 and I have been following Steve on his YouTube channel for a while now. I have been into audio for about 5-6 years. My two most recent builds are a pair of 3-way bookshelf speakers with Dayton mids and Vifa tweets. And a 4 cube (if I remember correctly) box with a 12" RE Audio SE tuned to 28hz. I'm looking to upgrade now though. And hopefully you folks can throw some advice my way.

This project I'm planning was influenced by Steve's 8 foot towers. Initially they were totally different, but the original design started pissing me off so I scrapped it and went this route. Mine will be about 6 feet and the top will be detachable from the bottom just like Steve's.

Each tower will include:

  • 1 x Sundown Audio X-15"
  • 2 x PSI Passive Radiators
  • 4 x Crescendo Audio PWX-8"
  • 2 x Crescendo Audio FT1

At first I was planning on using some Fi Qs, but then I saw the new Sundown X series coming out in June so I decided to go with them.

Tower_Front.jpg

Tower_Dim.jpg

Here is a model of the tower. At first glance does anybody see anything wrong with this design? The sub's enclosure is 4.32 ft3 @ 20hz. That takes into account the displacement of the sub and PRs. Each PWX has an individual enclosure of .47 ft3. I couldn't find any displacement numbers for those so that does not take the displacement into account. And I can't help but feel they will be stifled in such a small space. Am I correct to assume this?

Hmm, I can't help but feel like I'm missing some important details.... Anyway, let me know what you all think. Thanks.

Did I ever tell you, what the definition of insanity is? Insanity is, doing the exact same fucking thing, over and over again, expecting shit to change. That. Is. Crazy.

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how are you gonna crossover the mids? If you plan on just cutting off the low end on the mids and letting them play all the way up past 8k or wherever they drop off then i'd go another route as far as mids goes.

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put the tweeters next to those mids (if you can) and not where they are at. They probably won't sound that good like you have them. Nice sketchup! Have fun! :)


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how are you gonna crossover the mids? If you plan on just cutting off the low end on the mids and letting them play all the way up past 8k or wherever they drop off then i'd go another route as far as mids goes.

Not sure about the 8s, but the PWX6.5s that I have don't really like to play above 3.5kHz. They will, but they don't sound that great

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Can always get one of those low-pass filters for around 3.5khz on the mids.

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get another high per tower and put them between the mids,

what are you going to power this with?

PSN: Rcp_soundz

Good rule of thump is go by what fuse size is being used in these amps. The higher the more amperage it pulls, this is what I look at.

I'll stick a 300 amp fuse in a potato and sell it to you for $2k.

1991 Mazda 323VERY small build thread here: http://www.stevemead...23-small-build/

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how are you gonna crossover the mids? If you plan on just cutting off the low end on the mids and letting them play all the way up past 8k or wherever they drop off then i'd go another route as far as mids goes.

Not sure about the 8s, but the PWX6.5s that I have don't really like to play above 3.5kHz. They will, but they don't sound that great

yeah, this was brought to my attention the other day about pretty much any pro audio mid, gotta cut them off at some point, just like you don't go and play anything above 150hz through subs, if I ever go the pro audio route i'll make sure to have a DEH-80prs.

'93 Firebird Formula V8

H/U- Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X395

Mids/Highs Amp- Hifonics ZXI80.4

Wiring-KNU RCA's, Speaker Wire, And Two Runs Of Trystar 1/0

G34 Red Top and a 180amp Ford Alternator

www.youtube.com/TRTC360

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how are you gonna crossover the mids? If you plan on just cutting off the low end on the mids and letting them play all the way up past 8k or wherever they drop off then i'd go another route as far as mids goes.

I was planning on setting the band-pass for the mids at about 80hz/3500hz. And then setting a high-pass filter at about 3000hz for the highs. That way there would be a little overlap, thus no frequency gaps. This will all be actively crossed over using a DBX 234xs.

put the tweeters next to those mids (if you can) and not where they are at. They probably won't sound that good like you have them. Nice sketchup! Have fun! :)

Yeah, I was thinking that. I wasn't sure if they would sound good all the way at the top like that. The design still needs to be tweaked anyway, so I'm sure I can find a spot for them next to the mids.

get another high per tower and put them between the mids,

what are you going to power this with?

Shouldn't two tweeters in each be sufficient though? I mean, more than a 2:1 ratio of mids/highs would be unnecessary with these speaker wouldn't it?

Behringer amps will be powering it. Here is a list of the equipment I will be using.

  • Behringer XENYX 1202 Mixer
  • Furman M-8x2 Power Conditioner
  • DBX 234xs Crossover
  • Berhinger EP4000 (for the subs)
  • Berhinger EP2000 (for the mids)
  • Kenwood Basic M2-A (I have had this lying around unused for about a year. It will be used for the highs)

Thanks for the replies guys. Have a nice night!

Did I ever tell you, what the definition of insanity is? Insanity is, doing the exact same fucking thing, over and over again, expecting shit to change. That. Is. Crazy.

Did I ever tell you the definition, of insanity?

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im sure two will be enough, i guess it was more of a personal thing i guess, i think it would look a little neater and might get you a better mix between mids/highs, but its up to you. maybe before you drill the holes attach all the drives up there somehow and see what position sounds better ( i know it wont be in the enclosure but you will get an idea

all in all though they will work fine and get loud up where they are

PSN: Rcp_soundz

Good rule of thump is go by what fuse size is being used in these amps. The higher the more amperage it pulls, this is what I look at.

I'll stick a 300 amp fuse in a potato and sell it to you for $2k.

1991 Mazda 323VERY small build thread here: http://www.stevemead...23-small-build/

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edit: I just realised they are only 6ft tall, might not be as much of a problem then, but still.... give it a try, measure twice cut once right??

PSN: Rcp_soundz

Good rule of thump is go by what fuse size is being used in these amps. The higher the more amperage it pulls, this is what I look at.

I'll stick a 300 amp fuse in a potato and sell it to you for $2k.

1991 Mazda 323VERY small build thread here: http://www.stevemead...23-small-build/

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