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Im wondering if there is a place i should deaden first for the most improvement? Should i just look for the place flexing the most or? I was thinking roof or doors its a single cab truck too btw and i posted in general audio not second skin because im not sure what company im going with yet but ill only be able to afford about 10 sq ft right now thanks guys

My setup,

Digital Designs M80

3 Re audio 10's ported tuned to 36 hz

Kenwood x-696

SHCA 0 gauge

Polk audio coax running off hu

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If you can only get 10 sqr feet I wouldn't use anything but damp pro. The cost is more per sqr foot but you need a lot less to achieve the same amount deadening. I would do some good size squares on your doors and some good size tiles on the roof. Also use spray foam on the roof inbetween the roof cross brace and the roof to cut down on the slap.

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If you can only get 10 sqr feet I wouldn't use anything but damp pro. The cost is more per sqr foot but you need a lot less to achieve the same amount deadening. I would do some good size squares on your doors and some good size tiles on the roof. Also use spray foam on the roof inbetween the roof cross brace and the roof to cut down on the slap.

ok thanks for the response man i plan on eventually deadening the whole truck but as a highschooler with no job moneys very tight lol ill look more into second skin for sure everyone on here i have not seen a single bad thing about them thanks again

My setup,

Digital Designs M80

3 Re audio 10's ported tuned to 36 hz

Kenwood x-696

SHCA 0 gauge

Polk audio coax running off hu

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deadening the doors will also improve the quality of the midrange speakers..

how big is ur system?

deadening the doors will also improve the quality of the midrange speakers..

how big is ur system?

its nothing crazy just polk 6.5 and 5x7 on hu power and 3 re audio 10s tuned to 34 its on a boss amp for now :shrug: i cant afford the amp i want (sq 1200) but everything flexes in the truck on the lows its a decent system oh also a kenwood x696 i think i may just do the doors for now i pulled off the panels today and there so flimsy

My setup,

Digital Designs M80

3 Re audio 10's ported tuned to 36 hz

Kenwood x-696

SHCA 0 gauge

Polk audio coax running off hu

Link to comment
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Doing the doors will also keep out a ton of road noise, next do the roof. Even just a couple of squares up there will keep flex out of the panels

Doing the doors will also keep out a ton of road noise, next do the roof. Even just a couple of squares up there will keep flex out of the panels

ok thank you im gonna be doint the door panels and will do the roof next then the back wall thanks for the input guys

My setup,

Digital Designs M80

3 Re audio 10's ported tuned to 36 hz

Kenwood x-696

SHCA 0 gauge

Polk audio coax running off hu

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I do the inside of doors first and just the speaker patch for round the speaker itself

Then I do trunk if trunk car

Then floor and roof as one as there both easies with all interior out

In you car the dunamat bulk pack should do the roof and floor

And a single box door size will do both doors

Idd start with, that as both pack 1x bulk, 1 door

Then when you get some more money another door(out side of door order door card) and trunk pack or another door(for rear wall)

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Asked my self the same thing yesterday ext. cab truck I ended up doing my doors. They flexed the most =]

04 dodge dakota ext cab 4x4

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