Box suggestions for a 10" Type X

[Enzo]

I live in Milton Ontario. Well for some reason the only loud frequency that seems to come from this sub in the box are lows haha. Everything else is non exsistent. Right now all the speakers are stock in the car and are running off the factory amplifier. The car is a 2000 Monte Carlo SS. I have made a sealed box before for my 2 twelves but ive never tried a ported box.

[Joe X]

Ported will make the thing stronger on lows, anyways the amp that source the subwoofer must have a LPF (low pass filter) if you set that to a higher frequency that should help your issue, say between 80 and 100Hz.

[Enzo]

the LPF has already been set to be around there, still no difference

[ncochran]

I think I remember a post around here concerning Sundown X subs suggested box dimensions. I believe someone said they are pretty well identical to the zv3 line in terms of enclosures. If that is the case, I would think your current box is entirely too large. I don't have Torres installed on this machine but I think your box comes out somewhere around 1.3 cubes (assuming 3/4" mdf). For the zv3 10, if you run sealed, the recommendation is for .5 cubes. Your box is not too far from triple that.

Again, I don't have Torres installed so I can't help a whole lot, but the ported recommendation is 1 cube. I would think that you could aero port your current box and be right where you need to be in terms of net cubes. A quick check with http://psp-inc.com/tools.html suggests that assuming your box is 1.2 cubes net (your sub takes up roughly .1 cube), you could go with a 3" flared port roughly 11 3/4" long which if you ported out the side would still leave you enough clearance from the back of your port to the side of the box. That would leave you tuned right about 35hz and your port should be long enough that I don't think you would have a problem with port noise.

Porting your current box would be a lot cheaper than having someone build and ship you a ported box, and would give you an idea as to whether or not your sealed box is the problem. If you don't want to bother with a flared port, you could by a 2' piece of pvc from Lowes (or whatever home improvement store is closest to you) for less than $10. If straight port, cut it to 10 3/4" and try that. Cutting the hole in the box is super simple if you have a router, and still pretty easy with a jigsaw, although a router is definitely a better tool for that job.

Best of luck!

[Joe X]

the LPF has already been set to be around there, still no difference

If you move up and down the LPF and nothing changes, maybe the signal you are giving is already low passed, it can also be that the front stage cant keep up with the output of the sub.

Anyways as stated above your box is too big for sealed and could be turned in to ported, is just that I think that going ported would not really address your problem.

[Enzo]

Ok i was thinking that the box could be too big aswell. I will try to post some pics tonight of the box so you guys can see. What would be a straight port?

[ncochran]

Ok i was thinking that the box could be too big aswell. I will try to post some pics tonight of the box so you guys can see. What would be a straight port?

A 10 3/4" piece of 2" pvc pipe stuck in your box for the most part lol. Just make a hole in the side of your box that is the same size as the outer diameter of the pvc. Depending on how easy your box is to work with, it might also be worth your time to support the pvc inside the box as well. Some of the build logs on here that use round ports show how to do that.

[Enzo]

Oh ok that doesnt sound too hard. Where would be the best place to cut this hole?

[zxsonnyxz]

More like 4" I would say

[ncochran]

More like 4" I would say

I actually meant to say 3" (as in my initial post about the port/box dimensions) and 10 3/4". A larger port may or may not be a little better, but he isn't going to fit a 4" port in a 15" wide box without dealing with 9" of port sticking out of his box (at least if he is looking for 35Hz tuning) I haven't looked at the numbers in WinISD, but I am sure that 3" x 10.75 should be adequate to avoid port noise.

A good spot for your port would be on the side, as far back as you need to make sure that your sub will not hit it, and probably 3" or so up from the bottom (or 3" down from the top, either one)