TRON Posted April 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 In a perfect world, you can see that and some. Daily systems aren't perfect, no matter what you spend on them. The amp can draw that and maybe you you can build an electrical system to supply it. A lot goes on between A and B. If you are really concerned about it not holding up to the current, then get a distro block that holds 2 fuses. Run a pair of 200's and call it a day. The fuse is only there to save the car from catching fire. Yeah, I understand that now. Sorry for dragging that on boys. Avalanche Alpine Type S comps Alpine Type S 10'' Alpine MPR-F300 Alpine MRX-M50 Mechamn 270 XS Power d3400s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tebo Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 Run it unfused! At your own risk of course =] 04 dodge dakota ext cab 4x4 excessive amperage 300 amp alt with MONSTER stud =)sundown z v3 15 in a 4th order on aq2200sundown 100.4 2 way active...2 Prv audio 6mb200 & 2 re XXX tweetersdeka intimidatorkenwood x396big 3 1/0 knu wire back to deka intimidator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 Just run a 300. By the time you figure voltage drop and box rise, your amp wont pull 300a of current This is true, but my plan is to run dual 300a alts with 4 or 5 batteries...Id like to think that the amplifier will draw close to the rating. Lol if that is your plan for you car, and your complaining now about $17 for a 350a fuse. Just wait until you want to run all of what you just stated. You're easily looking at 2-3 grand just in those alts and batteries, and possibly another couple hundered ontop of that 2-3k for all the wiring needed to have a healthy flow of electricity throughout the car. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UnderLoK Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 To everyone that thinks doubling up fuses is the solution, I really don't think that works. To double up fuses means you have to divide the current between the two runs going to the amplifier. I'm pretty sure that electricity takes the shortest quickest route, and you cant just direct it to "split" into two fuses. If you have two different power sources maybe but coming off a buss bar as a single source I'm really really sure that wont work. I need Tony C here. Power takes the path of least resistance meaning that the load will spread across the two fuses as resistance on each builds. 2 150's on a run is the same as 1 300. That's why you see some inline fuse blocks with 2 or 4 mini-anl fuses. The problem comes in if you try to run 1 300 and 1 50, that won't work as it will try spreading the load evenly and pop the 50. As King said a 300 is fine, but just wanted to help with the confusion. If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARSCheck out my walled TBSS build over here4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9 DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500 Pioneer X8500 6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S Second Skin 2 270a Mechman Alts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GatiBeats Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 You are able to use smaller fuses in parallel to meet the fusing recommendation for your amp. Here's an example: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNI-11 06 pontiac grand prix alpine ida x100 rf t2 comps rf t1500, t400-2 knu 0 big 3 xs d3400 oct 11 tentatively: 2 obsidian 18 v2's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GatiBeats Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 that fuse holder runs 3 in parallel so you have the option to fuse for 360a (3x120) rather than 400a (2x200) if that makes a difference to you 06 pontiac grand prix alpine ida x100 rf t2 comps rf t1500, t400-2 knu 0 big 3 xs d3400 oct 11 tentatively: 2 obsidian 18 v2's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 To everyone that thinks doubling up fuses is the solution, I really don't think that works. To double up fuses means you have to divide the current between the two runs going to the amplifier. I'm pretty sure that electricity takes the shortest quickest route, and you cant just direct it to "split" into two fuses. If you have two different power sources maybe but coming off a buss bar as a single source I'm really really sure that wont work. I need Tony C here. Power takes the path of least resistance meaning that the load will spread across the two fuses as resistance on each builds. 2 150's on a run is the same as 1 300. That's why you see some inline fuse blocks with 2 or 4 mini-anl fuses. The problem comes in if you try to run 1 300 and 1 50, that won't work as it will try spreading the load evenly and pop the 50. As King said a 300 is fine, but just wanted to help with the confusion. I also forgot to talk about that, yes OP you can run multiple fuses to achieve certain fuse ratings you may not be able to get from a single fuse. But they all must be exactly the same fuse rating if using multiple. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skater229 Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content/electromech/fuse/html/anl/anlfuse.php $4.05 ea for a ceramic 350 amp ANL fuse. 2010 Chevy HHR Panel (Work in progress) Pioneer AVHX-5800BHS McLaren MLM880's and MLT2's 2ea per door on a DC 175.4 Two DC Audio M4 Level 5 15's On A DC5K Alt CES 200/270+ 4ea Banks of Maxwell 2.7v 3000f caps for a total of 2000f 1ea XS 3100 and 2ea NSB FT170 Batts for 450+ah Not a HUGE build but here it is... DC Audio HHR Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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