Homemade Super-Neo Woofer: THE CHEVELLE RESTORATION IS DONE, dampener recommendations??

[Dwn4BassAlan]

it frightens me how much you remind me of one of my friends

I expected more big words and attitude.

I know, and I was right on the brink of unleashing it there lol. You wouldn't believe how many sarcastic sentences I backspaced on

[Dwn4BassAlan]

Here's what I need one more time, in great detail, explain the glue process for the spiders and coil and the soft parts. At this point I know how to do it, even fairly well, but there's no point in not being as careful as possible now.

pics of what you want to glue but dont know how

Youve built a motor, and cant figure out how to glue the surround down!?!?

Youtube it. Its all over

Lol I SAID that I already knew how to do it, but it can't hurt to be 100% sure or hear any advice that people have found to be particularly helpful when doing so.

Maybe you remember the difficulties I had at most other steps while building the motor hahaha, I'm not trying to keep that up.

I'll leave it at this fox. I'm just trying to make a point here. The thing I'm picking up from some is that I get mad at people's advice for no reason and all that, but this is just one of the many examples where it just seems to have to do with repetition. There's plenty of it through the last 59 pages, so please understand where I'm coming from.

Sorry if I get short with some of you trying to help or give advice, but if you don't want an answer that seems douche-y, don't give me a douche-y suggestion or comment, and please just make sure that I haven't answered it already, or multiple times.

[Pro7]

I think you just need to move the port.

[Bump4life]

ca glue. call it a day.

is this woofer built yet? i keep checking in and i never see any woofer porn or anything. no videos.

[Dwn4BassAlan]

ca glue. call it a day.

is this woofer built yet? i keep checking in and i never see any woofer porn or anything. no videos.

It's not about the glue type, I already have CA glue, I just meant the ways people actually apply it that has worked best for them. Like the way I've heard about people using hairbands and stuff like that under the spider to make the glue joint nice and clean and all that, that's what I meant really. Just little tips and tricks, like how much applicator to spray, the prepping that seems to work best (clean landings w/ rubbing alcohol and sand?) stuff along those lines.

And no videos yet, but we are so close, I promise. Something new always seems to come up lol, sorry it's taken so long.

[Dwn4BassAlan]

Now, can we squash all that other noise and just move on? I honestly want some insight on the theory of increasing the gap length. If you know anything about it, just say what you think might work or not. Just remember that the difference in my woofer is the magnetic orientation. So the bottom plate has both the negative pole of the main center pole piece attached to it, and it has the positive poles from the surrounding magnets. Then the positive pole of the center pole piece attracts the field from the negative top plate since all the surrounding magnets are attached by their negative to it.

So am I right in thinking that adding another piece of steel to the top plate, and gluing it down and drilling them together would keep the top plate as commonly negative, since it would be just like an extension? And would therefore increase my overall gap height by increasing the common negative top plate? It works the same way with magnets, but I've assumed a lot about this whole thing before and it's ended up wrong some times, just want to be sure.

Just answer that at the least, and I will forever love you.

[hdorre]

Inb4 a super long response that nobody is going to read.

[Dwn4BassAlan]

since you're not doing much of this yourself

you might as well just send all the parts to a subwoofer builder

Yeah, that's totally right. I haven't done any of this myself, especially not the initial v.1 woofer, or putting the motor together from raw magnets and steel, hand drawing the cut outs and drill holes for the top plate, hand threading each hole in the top plate, over-boring the basket, or having to glue all the soft parts, thanks for reminding me that was actually all not a major part of the subwoofer at all. Totally forgot.

I'm sorry but it seems to me that you ask for help with every single thing

I have been told that it is good to always ask for help

but in this case

I just wish you would try some things out and be willing to go back and adjust shit

You're the smartest Alan I have ever seen and I think you have the ability to just do it

I wish you would make a build log for whatever the dc power alt is going in and keep this seperate

I would follow both but I come here for some custom subwoofer fap time

I just hope you make a UBL when it is finally done

Other than that ->>>

First things first: asking for ideas & advice =/= not doing it myself --- just doesn't make sense when you think about it.

I don't always ask for help on many of these things, people just say what they think on some stuff, and that's fine, just don't try and force it on me if I don't immediately incorporate it into the woofer. And since this is something I had never done before, sometimes I just like to be over-sure. It's the same way with math, I always want to confirm it.

But here's where it's different, yeah I have tried things without asking about them before, but this is something I can't go back and fix, once it's glued, it's final. If I wasn't risking $150 in parts every time then you'd bet this would have been "done" a while ago. But that isn't the case.

And Gunnem, nothing in here is completely irrelevant, the DC alt is going in the chevelle with this woofer build. That's why all the sky high wire is for, that's what the DC 3.5k is for and alt will be the power. Everything in here is part of the overall build.

[STEvil]

For this sub I would just center the coil in the gap so it gets maximum movement in both directions before either touching the back plate or exiting the magnetic gap.

[boom50cal]

If I'm still on track here with what your saying(how to increase space between basket and motor, in simple terms) Fi used some simple little plastic spacers on my SSD10. Sure, not a crazy powerful neo motor, but it works for what it is. Maybe just some 1/4+ inch steel spacers with longer bolts? Would provide extra cooling on the upper part of the coil.

Might not even be what y'all are talking about now, i don't even fucking know anymore. Go pound some ass, let the ideas come to you, then apply them.