Pontius81 Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 I have a 1992 Crown Victoria that i need to build an enclosure for. The speaker is 1 fully loaded Fi Q 18 D2, this means cooling, pole chamfer, low QTS, spider, no I heat ring, and internal leads. I want to do this right the first time and there are no reputable box builders in my area and i cant for the life of me figure out winisd or any other port calculators. I've tried contacting online box builders for blueprints or just some help and they must be too cool for me as they refuse to contact me back Can someone please help me!!! My outer dimensions are as follows 22"T x 22"D x 38"W. I can squeeze a couple inches in any direction if absolutely necessary and I can definitely run port outside of box. Definitely double baffle, port forward and tuned to 28-34. I say 28-34 as it will be a daily driver application and im not sure which one is better as ive been steered both ways to the point it started a argument on another forum. Im not concerned about sq that much. I want as close to 150db's at the window as possible! It has to be at the very least 6 cubic feet with alot of port area from what im told. I want it as loud as possible!!! I have 2 4'x8' sheets of 3/4" mdf and fiberglass resin for inside. Also have 2 4' lengths of 2x2 wood for bracing but can acquire any other suggestable bracing materials. I do plan on doing 45's in the corners and rounding edges. My equipment is as follows. Sony 601bt HU, Knu 0 ga wiring, Knu RCA's, XS Power D3100, 200+ amp Mitsubishi police interceptor alt controlled by a bakatronics PWM device charging at 14.9, R.F. T2500-1BDCP Wired @ 4 Ohm for 1800 RMS, Soon a R.F. T1000-4ad, and a Fi Q 18 D2 ohm w/ a sexy carbon fiber dust cap! I cut out my back dash for open space to trunk and plan to run sub and port forward at the opening between cabin and trunk as i plan to seal the enclosure to the cabin. Ive mocked a cardboard enclosure with these dimensions and it will work but I have no idea how it will sound or if the depth is deep enough etc. If anyone has the knowledge and can help me with a diagram i would be willing to send cash via paypal. All thoughts, ideas, and suggestions are welcome! Also if anyone out there has any leads on a R.F. T1000-4 or 3sixty.3 let me know. The sub woofers specs are on here http://store.ficaraudio.com/q18... This is the enclosure recommendation at the bottom that was sent to me by Nick of Fi car audio. I could use it if absolutely necessary but wont work great and would require cutting and welding. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/44520-q-series-cut-sheets/ To all that reply Thank you. This is my first REAL build and input is greatly appreciated! I will post pics when done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pontius81 Posted July 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 I know this is a very long post LOL! Ive done alot of research and still only have a vague understanding at best about alot of car audio technological know how. The peeps on here with the knowledge have my deepest respect as theres alot going on with car audio and alot of factors at play. Again thanks to all who reply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pontius81 Posted July 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Dual 1 and Dual 2 Ohm Cast basket Wrap around gasket Kraft pulp fiber reinforced cone Single layer wide foam surround Push terminals Extra heavy lead wire FEA optimized motor 3" diameter 4 layer coil Single high grade magnet Quad progressive spiders High or low Qts motors Optional Heli-cool system And many other custom options Q18 DUAL 1 | DUAL 2 Fs: 32.4 Hz | 32.1 Hz Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coil Qms: 9.31 | 9.37 Qes: .48 | .48 Qts: .46 | .46 Mms: 341g | 347g Cms: 0.73mm/N | 0.73mm/N Sd: 1210cm^2 | 1210cm^2 Vas: 149.7 l | 149.7 l Spl: 92.0dB 1W/1m | 91.9dB 1W/1m Bl: 13.9 N/A | 19.65 N/A Xmax: 28mm Rms: 1500W Sealed box: 4-8 cuft Ported box: 6-10 cuft @ 28Hz Sub OD: 18.500” Cut ID: 16.750” Mounting depth: 10.000” Displacement: 0.24cuft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 38w x22h x22d just works double baffle the front 102sq" of port 5w x 16.25"d (5" from back wall) you should have 6.85@35hz depending on bracing i would have got the d4 and ran it at 2ohm on the full 2500rms as your right on the min net for that sub as for extra space if you can fit it double the entire box if you can Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pontius81 Posted July 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Theres no dua 4 option for the Fi Q. I was told that 6 cubes was the minimum by Nick at Fi and there site. How could i get that tuning lower lets say to 32? What is the advantage of using a duel 4 at 2ohm which would be 3,223 to a 1,500 watt rms speaker. Im confused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Make the port longer. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 extend the port, why do you want 32hz, if you want to meter it idd suggest high 40-low 50 the highest idd tune and be musical is 42hz but the q normally isnt a sub thats metered if your after a sq build and not at '150's' as suggested then yes tune lower, but 35-37 to me is a good tune for that sub for general listening Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pontius81 Posted July 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 This sub isnt made for 150's lol I wanted low tuning at 32 and hopefully lound enough to rattle my brain. Anyone have any software? Is one of the 2 walled vent designs possible. Seriously i need something good with measurements and such. I will pay for the right design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Get Torres calculator On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 http://www.ram-designs.com if you happy to pay but you won't notice the 3hz different in tune, as youll be dropping the f3 in doing so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.