Joshua Dub House Posted July 3, 2013 Report Posted July 3, 2013 heres the situation... I had 4 gauge stinger installed because I was running a kenwood 1905d amp 1800w max and 2 p3 subwoofers in my 2013 mustang. well I returned the subs and amp and had a custom box built to port through the rear deck of the vehicle. I ordered a rockford t1500.1 amp and 2 rockford t04d12 subs the problem now I am running into is what to do for power? is it better to keep the 4 gauge and hook up a yellow top in my trunk and run 0 gauge from the trunk battery to the amp at the cost of 250 or have them install a new 0 gauge wiring kit for the total cost of 250 dollars? I am not touching this car myself because they are covering anything that goes wrong and its a brand new car. help a brother out my car is 100% stock except for stinger 4 gauge ran.... any other suggestions would be appreciated. HOWEVER I am set with the t0 and 1500.1 and not changing them because I already payed(ya... did it to myself) ps....heres the ride
bighossf150 Posted July 3, 2013 Report Posted July 3, 2013 $250 for a run of 1/0 is fucking retarded high Used to have a loud truck 2009 Corvette Z06, H/C/I, 150 shot, g force tune, 730rwhp/690rwtq 2013 F-150 limited, MPT Tune, leveled on 35"s
Extratrespl Posted July 3, 2013 Report Posted July 3, 2013 you're better off doing it yourself in the long run you need to learn how to do that stuff anyways but if you really want to pay a lot of money you could you should go ahead and upgrade to the 0 gauge because at Rockford amp is a whole nother animal the stock alternator should be enough the yellow top should also be enough but I would recommend a small kinetic battery as well or maybe even a XS Power Battery up front.. it will help from keeping your alternator from frying up and it'll take the strain of your alternator with a0 gauge and be sure to do the big three also to get optimum power from your amp also try and find a small mom and pop shop to help you out they will always give you a good deal and help you out whenever you want to switch stuff out and give you good prices later on Too Bass Or Not To Bass
ROLEXrifleman Posted July 3, 2013 Report Posted July 3, 2013 $250 for a run of 1/0 is fucking retarded high he's getting it installed by someone else, you know they're gonna rape him. O gauge from the front to back, then get a 2nd battery when you can. the T1500 calls for a 200 amp fuse. Thats alot of current on your factory electrical. the flip side is if you get a 2nd battery and use the 4 gauge to the back that's cutting it close as with any length over 10 feet and an amperage over 100-150 you should be making the jump to the next size wire. theres getting it done and getting it done right. Not sure what size alt is in that car but at full tilt if that T1500 is pulling all 200 amps of current your gonna know real quick with either set up you go with. but to me the 4 gauge run to a 2nd battery is just asking for all sorts of trouble. Take my advice for what it's worth, im sure others will chime in. Rolex you sicken me. Just let me finish my pie ~ Juice
Kyblack76 Posted July 3, 2013 Report Posted July 3, 2013 Im gonna chime in, and say listen to the couple above... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
Joshua Dub House Posted July 4, 2013 Author Report Posted July 4, 2013 screw it I will just do both... I make good money but I can't keep it lol I want to do this right. I know how to run the wire I am just too lazy to do it myself(let me explain first) I drive a semi 3 weeks straight over the road and then get 2 days to be home so I don't feel like doing this myself... thanks for the advice guys I went in hoping to spend 500 bucks and be out the door... while the p3's arent insane they sound awful.. t0's are good enough for now I plan on upgrading to t1's eventually and running about 8 speakers inside the car amped and adding a double din once they release the adapter I want
ROLEXrifleman Posted July 4, 2013 Report Posted July 4, 2013 You have a CDL and drive.............. Stop being a cheap ass and get the 0 and the battery already. that way when you change the truck again you wont have electrical upgrades needed. That is unless you go crazy and need an Alt. But with 0 to the back and a 2nd battery you should be GTG for a while. Rolex you sicken me. Just let me finish my pie ~ Juice
Hellbilly429 Posted July 4, 2013 Report Posted July 4, 2013 t1500 only accepts up to 4 gauge so you will need reducers if you run 0 gauge to the amp, and the positive and negative terminal are so close to each other you will need a set of offset o to 4 gauge reducers, which I haven't been able to find from anywhere that seems legit.... 2018 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback (build in progress) NVX Sound Deadener (Front Doors) Stinger FAST Rings Stock Electrical SSA Evil 6.5's Front Speakers Stock rear speakers MB Quart ONX4.80 speaker amp Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp DC Level 4 12" D1 @ 2-ohm Box In Design Stage Stock RadioMy Build Log
Joshua Dub House Posted July 4, 2013 Author Report Posted July 4, 2013 lol I am hoping I don't regret going with t0's
ROLEXrifleman Posted July 4, 2013 Report Posted July 4, 2013 t1500 only accepts up to 4 gauge so you will need reducers if you run 0 gauge to the amp, and the positive and negative terminal are so close to each other you will need a set of offset o to 4 gauge reducers, which I haven't been able to find from anywhere that seems legit.... Or you just go 4 gauge off the battery into the amp as long as the run is less than 7 feet. And with a bat in the trunk it better be. Rolex you sicken me. Just let me finish my pie ~ Juice
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