bbeljefe Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 If you prefer the other amp then use it... doesn't matter to me. Is it a more powerful amplifier? The picture you linked doesn't reflect the model number... Anyway, I wouldn't use anything smaller than 12 gauge speaker wire in that application... 10 would be nice but isn't necessary. As for what's there, you can't tell the gauge by the thickness of the cable assembly so it could very well be 16 gauge masquerading as something larger. Rule of thumb... wire can be too small but not too big. Also, when you replace the wire, I recommend using wire ties on the inside and outside of the cable entry point rather than tying knots in the cable. This will preserve the integrity of the wire and still hold it in place. I'd also seal it up nicely with Polyseamseal. I despise silicone as it doesn't really stick well to anything porous. It's really best suited for gluing/sealing glass and other non porous surfaces. Not to mention, it's sticky as hell and doesn't clean up with water. Polyseamseal is siliconized, tools off well, creeps deeper into voids and cleans up with water. EDIT: Also, some info on 4ohm vs. 1ohm. Wired @ 4ohms, your woofer won't extract as much power from the amp as it will wired @1ohm. With a 1ohm stable amp, you can get the same sound quality with 1ohm as with 4ohm, plus you'll get the most power the amp can supply. The problem with sound quality has nothing to do with ohm loads, it has to do with clipping/overdriving the woofer or amp (and enclosure design), which can be done to a ten thousand dollar set up as easily as a one thousand dollar system. Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Lee Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 If you prefer the other amp then use it... doesn't matter to me. Is it a more powerful amplifier? The picture you linked doesn't reflect the model number... Anyway, I wouldn't use anything smaller than 12 gauge speaker wire in that application... 10 would be nice but isn't necessary. As for what's there, you can't tell the gauge by the thickness of the cable assembly so it could very well be 16 gauge masquerading as something larger. Rule of thumb... wire can be too small but not too big. Also, when you replace the wire, I recommend using wire ties on the inside and outside of the cable entry point rather than tying knots in the cable. This will preserve the integrity of the wire and still hold it in place. I'd also seal it up nicely with Polyseamseal. I despise silicone as it doesn't really stick well to anything porous. It's really best suited for gluing/sealing glass and other non porous surfaces. Not to mention, it's sticky as hell and doesn't clean up with water. Polyseamseal is siliconized, tools off well, creeps deeper into voids and cleans up with water. EDIT: Also, some info on 4ohm vs. 1ohm. Wired @ 4ohms, your woofer won't extract as much power from the amp as it will wired @1ohm. With a 1ohm stable amp, you can get the same sound quality with 1ohm as with 4ohm, plus you'll get the most power the amp can supply. The problem with sound quality has nothing to do with ohm loads, it has to do with clipping/overdriving the woofer or amp (and enclosure design), which can be done to a ten thousand dollar set up as easily as a one thousand dollar system. well the speaker wire is 12g, it says on the wire. im about to head to lowes because its the only place that has 12 gauge, they may even have 10. ill check while im there. also, the amp i posted a pic to, is an 1800 watt amp compared to the 1000 watt amp currently being used, sorry for not providing that information. thats why i figured wired at 4 ohms, i could get the 1500 watt rms the sub can run, compared to running it off the 1000 watt amp at 1 ohm, plus it may or may not have better sound quality. if lowes has polyseamseal ill get it, otherwise i know they have silicone which is what ill have to use, knowing now that my other amp is 1800 watts, compared to the 1000 watt im currently using, do you think it would be better i use the 1800 watt power acoustik amp at 4 ohms? model number is ovn2-1800 if your curious. and if this should fix it, any information on how to use the multi-meter to properly set up my sub from the amplifier would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
775Tundra Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 That amp will get 760 watts rms at best. But it might still be your best bet. 2003 Tahoe dc 7.5k dc level 5 15's (3) MMats 341's xs power batts lots of sky high cable dual alts(came off the sky-high gmc and don't know who made them) ipad in center console vu-din in center console all being ripped out and being sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Lee Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 That amp will get 760 watts rms at best. But it might still be your best bet. sounds like it will be even weaker. can you tell me why it would be my best bet? compared to 1000 watt rms 1 ohm any information on how to use the multi-meter to properly set up my sub from the amplifier would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 I don't know much about either of those amps but the power acoustic is making some pretty exaggerated dynamic power claims so I'd be surprised if it can to claimed RMS on 14 volts. I'd stick with the other one until we find out whether or not it's working properly. Hell, it will probably do its rated 400 watts at 4 ohms while the PA probably will only do 75% of its rated. But again... I have no experience with either. Anyway, get your speaker cabinet rewired and get the system working first, then we'll run through the gain setting procedure. Oh and, Lowe's carries Polyseamseal. I've bought tons of it from them. Another way it's better than silicone is that it doesn't smell like a chemical factory... Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Lee Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 problem is still the same, im going to hook up the sub in a different vehicle and see if theres any difference. different amp, different everything. should show different results if the subwoofer is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Lee Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 problem is not there when hooked up to the other vehicle.... the guy has a rockford phosgate p4004 amp in there, its a different amp thats for sure, no level or gain control or nothing except for a bass boost and crossover really. i dont know how many watts the thing pushes out even ive tried to look it up b4, so i hooked up my power acoustik amp in there cuz i've tried it in my car and it does the same thing but even quicker.... still worked. so this has me thinking it has to be ground, its the only thing that makes any sense. wouldnt me running my old power cable 4g from my amp to the negative terminal on my battery rule that out? im really frustrated cuz it works fine in the other vehicle but not mine. could my headunit play into this at all? maybe the headunit has a problem that i cant check? im really not sure what other options i have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCP Audio Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 any way you can wire the amp/sub up outside the car, enar the front( so you can only have a short distance of wire to make sure your not dropping too much) also try using a different device to send the amp signal, even if its just your ipod or what ever. just remember to turn it down before you turn it on!! that will rule out your head unit doing stupid stuff although i dont think this is the cause because you have said it works outside the box PSN: Rcp_soundz Good rule of thump is go by what fuse size is being used in these amps. The higher the more amperage it pulls, this is what I look at. I'll stick a 300 amp fuse in a potato and sell it to you for $2k. 1991 Mazda 323VERY small build thread here: http://www.stevemead...23-small-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 you can see if the headunit is the problem or not by having the rca's disconnected. simple as that. remote wire wont cause an amp to go into protect. only for it to shut off because of insufficient voltage/current. you still haven't moved the ground from that stock grounding point that was used for the like 200w stereo that came with the car, have you? strut tower. frame. frame is better. ground is ideal if its as short as possible. sand all paint and rust off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 edit: wtf double post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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