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Found 37 results

  1. Ok so I'm new here and just want to apologize before hand if I pose a question in the forum. I have an old school Orion HCCA 12 that I would like to rebuild/have rebuilt, but can't seem to find any information on a recone kit. I only know that the sub came out in like 1998-99. Is there any company that makes a kit or rebuilds them? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanx
  2. Well...I am trying to get back into the audio game. life went to shit for a bit but I have a new to me 2007 F250 CC/SB that I am trying to upgrade. Feel like I am going crazy looking at all this stuff again. 1. Going active. I have two zapco ST-4x SQs and an old school Orion XTR475. Should I go custom 3-way or just buy a component set? 2. Kenwood deck ( ) Mainly for easy of use for bluetooth/android control and FLAC ------ I also own an alpine 9887 which I was going to use but...I like the USB/FLAC of the kenwood... (hoarder status) 3. Don't know where to place the speakers...either tweet/3" mid on the a pillar and the 8" in the kick or just a 6.5 component set... Tweeters: SBacoutics metal dome tweets Mids: Fountek FE85 "3 mid (plan to run two) Faitalpro 3FE25 3" mid (plan on run two) Woofer: Beyma 8p300fe 8p300fe-1.htm OOOOORRRR.... budget $300 max for a decent but beefy component set. I know 5.25 component set fits in the doors but that location kinda sucks. @White Lightning @06RTCharger @ToNasty @Audio-Concepts @Triticum Agricolam
  3. I have an Orion amp, it intermittently makes rapid clicking sounds upon vehicle startup with no audible output. just clicking like a relay sound.. green lights on, and fans are running.. . i have to turn the car off then on again and then the amp runs fine, its totally weird. I bought this to replace an old kenwood 9105D that worked just fine in the same car, so I dont think its the car.., has anyone had this issue with an orion? so strange.. The tech guy stated i had to have all three power connected with 3 different sources..and mentioned i should have 3 batterys??
  4. BigDWiz

    Orion XTR 2500.1D Amp Dyno Test

    It's 2017 and my brain is still wired to 1994 when the Orion XTR-2250 (1000 watts RMS) sold for 1300 bucks. Here we visit the present time when you can get a 2500 watt RMS amplifier for $439 USD. I've been in talks with Orion for a few months now as I keep getting requests to test their amps. I decided a good one to try would be the XTR 2500.1D. Rated 2500 watts at 1 ohm, 12.6 volts, seems like a good price point for many car audio enthusiasts. As stated in the video, Orion sent me this amp to test (not to keep, will be returned) and they did NOT pay me for this video. I had already bought an XTR 2500.1D to test, so it was also great that I had two to compare. Some people think MFG's may send me a "boosted" amp or one that's not the normal. I was able to try out both amps and confirm this is the norm for the current Orion XTR 2500.1D amp model. Skip to 4:26 if you want to see only Amp Dyno results See on YouTube in full 1080P HD or embedded below:
  5. So I have been trying to calculate my first 4th order for 2 orion hcca 10s. I have started with having a seperate sealed chamber for each sub with 0.625 cuft each and a common ported chamber of 2.5 cuft tuned to 45hz. I was just wondering how much port area I would need? Also if the airspace would be fine? Also I went for a 2:1 ratio since that was pretty common, what would be the advantage of going to a bigger ratio like a 3:1? Ive heard these subs like smaller enclosures so I didnt want to get to big. Thanks!
  6. Hello guys. Been a while. Need a little advise. Guy has a 2010 Nissan Maxima max dims 38l x 24w x 18.5h. Wanting to tune the box to 34hz and the speaker wants 3cu.ft. He wants to be loud and is using a Audiopipe APCL3001D. What do you think I should build the box at with a slot port? Thanks.
  7. Agent SCV

    2 Strapped Amps Vs 1 Big Amp

    Quick question, I've been running two SCV 3000ds strapped at 1 ohm or .5ohm per amp on my NSV3 15" for the last 6 months, recently fried an amp through my own error. I have an opportunity to swap and get a new scv 6000d for cheap and was wondering switch setup would be louder and better overall. I've got a singer 330 and 2 D3400 and 1 D3100. The setup was loud as hell, now 1 3000d is just not loud at all. Also I have been considering getting a Orion HCCA 8000.1 because they do rated 12.6v and obv I'd have shit tons of headroom. I need opinions thanks.
  8. Hey guys. I have a slight problem figuring out how many or how big or both, of alternators do i need to push 9000 watts. The system I am building is a little under 8000 watts. Im trying to run my amps at the highest efficiency possible. I have decided to run at least 2 D2700 xs power batteries. But, I am not sure what size or how many alts I need to efficiently charge the batts. ANy help would be greatly appreciated.
  9. Post your real or dream audio system below, I just wanna know what the community has. My real audio system--- 2 DC level 4 15's Custom box 3 4" aeroports 7 cubic ft tuned @30 2 Sundown sae1500D Alpine CDE-143BT 2 Alpine type r 6.5 componets 4 Crescendo PWX pro 6.5 2 Alpine Type r tweets 2 Alpine mrx-m110 Murdermat in all doors/back wall Skyhigh 0/1 awg runs Mechman 240A alt Skyhigh 18awg to door speakers JL rca's 2 XS d1600 My dream system--- 4 DC level 6 15's Walled box tuned @30 All Skyhigh/Certified Basshead wire 2 DC 10.0k 4 Crescendo neo 8" 6 Crescendo neo 6.5" 4 Crescendo ft1 DC amp/amps to power speakers 2 mechman 370A alts 4 XS lithium batteries Murdermat double layered everywhere custom dash If only I had the money/means for my dream system lol
  10. Billy Santana

    Need help finding the proper amp

    I have a Orion HCCA 12.4, I am going to be setting it up in the summer but for now im just trying to buy everything I need. The sub is rated for 2,000 watts RMS, I want a quality amp that can push this beast. my budget is 550 or so, would rather not reach my budgets max but if necessary I will. Thank you for your time. Any suggestions are appreciated and btw I will most likely be running the sub in parallel dropping the Ohm to 2 Ohms
  11. After much toil and measurements (including plotting everything in winisd pro) i have decided on a box design for my Orion Hcca 12.2 with a new black coil. Can anyone critique this design/ give me any last pointers? Any pointers will be appreciated!
  12. I recently bought an Orion Hcca 12.2 and am trying to build a box for it and have a few questions. I am putting roughly 1500 watts towards it. This is Orion's recommended box size. 1. Orion recommends a square port. Is there any benefit to a square vs slot port? 2. Orion recommends a 38 hz tuning. Isn't that a little high for rap. I was thinking 33-35 would sound better. 3.My working dimensions are h= 20 w =40 and d = 15. Sub up port up. Any help would be appreciated!
  13. Zx1337xZ

    amp ideas for 2 hcca 15.2

    Ok so just getting ideas on what amp I should use for 2 orion hcca 15.2. I was given a couple ideas like hifonics xx-maximus 10k and ppi 10k but not to sure about these amps so any ideas will help
  14. Hey everyone, I've got an HCCA102 black coil 2000 rms sub with a massive audio n4 amp and a prefab box. The sub sounds good and all but I know shes got more in her. And I'm damn sure its the box limiting it. So my question is what is the best recommended box or if someone can point me in the direction of a enclosure builder would be awesome. The prefab box i have now is as close to spec as orion recommends that I could find, same frequency tuning and sq ft. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  15. electronicoasis024

    Sub Suggestions for a 15"

    Hey guys, i got a alpine mrx-m240, it puts out 2,817 at 2-ohms on the certificate. I have currently 2 12'' alpine type r's but they cant handle the amp, i think i want a single 15'' that can take all the power, was an orion fan in the past but i dont know what to get. Open to suggestions
  16. Okay so I'm new here and I need some info. I have an orion hcca 10.2 and a hifonics brutus 1600.1. New. All under two weeks old. I also have an audiopipe cap 6 farad and good alt, battery. The sub recently stopped hitting at high volumes. Not clipping it I'm runnin bass knob a quarter head unit -6 amp about halfway and tuned to the box I have. Could it be the cap is giving the amp a shitting voltage or a voice coil blown because I did smell the woofer a bit when I took it out of the box. But here's a twist. Wired it up to 4 ohms (800rms) and it's working fine. But when I have it at 1 ohm (1600 rms) not even the rms of the sub. The manual for the sub says 2000 rms and when I had it at 1 ohm it would quit hitting hard at high volume. At 1 ohm also the cap voltage dropped below 10 volts without my gauge on my vehicles dropping under 14. Voice coil? Or shitty voltage from cap?
  17. Michael James Murphy

    orion cobalt 200.4 specs?

    I been having an orion cobalt 200.4 for a while. I just never messed with it until now. I was wondering if anyone has any info on the lowest ohm load to bridge 2 channels. I have 2 4 ohm subs and I was just wondering if I could drop them down to 2 ohms and bridge the rear channels. They are some cadence tens. 250 max 125 rms in a under seat probox In a Chevy Silverado ext cab 2001. Thanks in advance
  18. Soccerballzs

    8 Inch RF Mids in Jeep Doors

    Installed 8 inch mids in Jeep front doors. Already had Pioneer Pro 8 mids in them. They sounded great. Made speaker pods out of 8 inch grey pvc pipe then made a 3/4 plywood jig 1/32 smaller then outside diameter of pipe, tis allows for plastic shrink due to heat from the rotor bit. Took 3 hours to do both panels plus epoxy and glass on the backs. Turned out great no flaws at all. If you want a opinion on the Pioneer Mids PM me. No bashing here. ]
  19. This Jeep Commander needed to be used for everyday day drive so needed to keep as much space as possible. Single 10 inch Orion HCCA sub was used. Amplifier Box was used to house all the Electronics in. The Amplifier box also uses the rear third row seat A.C. outlet to cool in the summer time heat. The system has D-3100 XS Power to keep electronics up to 14.5 volt during driving. T.L. score of 134.7 on dash and 118 db. park and pound. This system took 1 week to construct in my cabinet shop and 2 days to install. Had no issues installing it at all. Went without any issues. Been doing car audio for around 32 years. On dash volt meters for electrical draw on system (autometer). Has rear charging post also to keep batteries fresh. Waiting on Orion to release the new line of HCCA Amps to see how they are. What do you guys thank of it? Images.
  20. Hello, I am looking for the expertise of those who know the orion equipment. I am a long time fan of the Original Orion 12d speakers. Some say the 15d's are the way to go but I like having some room left in my cars. Many years ago I was fotunate enough to have 1 in a factory orion box with plexi side and rectangular port. I loved it and it was plenty loud and clear for what i wanted. I powered this one 12d dual 2 ohm voice coil speaker with my 250g4 amp. 1 ohm bridged provided this with 800 watts. I am much older now and ran across a deal recently and aquired 2 mint condition 12d speakers. I still have my original 250g4 but have also just aquired a 275g4. I know the specs for both of these amps and have seen quite a few videos and comments about the TRUE output of these amps compared to the ratings. I've seen people say the 275g4 is 1200 at 1ohm at 12volts and at 13 and 14volts its upward of 1600 to 2000. I have also seen peoplesay the 12d's rating of 1200w is more like 2000 max. Data states .5 ohm stable in stereo how about mono? I would prefer the two wired down to the .5 ohm load but i do not want to blow these 12s. Do I play it safe and do the 250g4 at 800w to one 12 at 1 ohm and then the 275g4 to the other at 1200w 1ohm or wire them together down to .5 ohm and just use the 275g4 and see if the amp and the speakers can handle it. I could have went with the new hcca's but i did not want a set of speakers with that much weight and i also did not want to have to supply them with that many watts. 250g4 50x2 @ 4 ohms [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] 200x1 @ 4 ohms [email protected] [email protected] 275g4 Power ratings at 12V and 0.1% THD: 2 x 75W @ 4 ohms 2 x 150W @ 2 ohm 2 x 300W @ 1 ohm 2 x 600W @ ½ ohm 1 x 300W @ 4 ohm bridged 1 x 600W @ 2 ohm bridged 1 x 1200W @ 1 ohm bridged THD: 0.1% (4 ohms, 20Hz ∼ 20kHz) S/N Ratio: 100dB Damping Factor: >400 Freq. Response: 20Hz ∼ 20kHz (±0.25dB) Linear Bandwidth: 6Hz ∼ 50kHz (±3dB) Fuse: 6 x 30A Dimensions: 25" x 10.25" x 2.25" (63.5cm x 26cm x 5.7cm) Manufactured in 2000. G4 stands for 4th Generation I am asking for advice and or real data for the two. Thanks for the help.
  21. Hello everyone, This is my first post here, or on any forum on the interwebz. Thank you all in advance for any help you can provide. So my old focus hatchback decided to kick the bucket and I purchased a 2012 chrysler 200. Not my first choice of bass car but its nice and they were the only dealership in the Ann Arbor MI are that could get me a reasonable loan. I have 1 Sundown Z v.3 18 that i would love to try to cram in the trunk, i built the box for it that was in my focus but it will not fit in the chrysler so im looking for advice on how to make the proper choices for port size and what not. I do not plan to compete, i like it loud but clear also. Im not a strick audiophile but i can tell whats good and not. I love the lows, feeling the music is the best part but i listen to all sorts of music not just rap so id like to be able to have a bit of range. The trunk has a max height of 14.5 inches (that includes space for the woofer to move), 38" wide at the smallest point and id like to keep it to a max length of 30ish". I obviously dont care about having any trunk space left, thats why we have back seats right? For the time being ill be using my orion hcca 10 in the spec ported box that i paid wayyy to much to have the local shop build a few years ago. Power is a Hifonics Brutus brx 1600, kinetik hc 2000, knukoncepts ofc 1 awg, stock alt, new front batt soon and big 3 soon, there is only the stock crap in the car right now. And i know the amp isnt amazing but it gets the job done. So after the longwindedness you just endured what would yall say is a good port option? 6 to 7 cube box, i know the rule of thumb is 12 to 16 in sqd per foot cubd, id like to be around 32 33 hz. I was think an internal height of about 11", sub mounted up to a single baffle with a second overtop to make it flush and add strength and some 2x4 braces around the cutout. Single baffle everywhere else. My last box i messed up on calculations (first time) and ended up tuned way high but it sounded pretty good, got loud and still played down into the 20s. It is 1.5 inch mdf all around, resind the inside, 45d the corners, bedlined the outside, it weighs more than my gf with a purse full of rocks. Id like to go birch and stain it this time Thank you all again, im open to any and all suggestions. I can post pics too if anyone wants. As an fyi i have no comp to use any box building software since my macbook pro was stolen a year and a half ago so im all website calcs and paper.
  22. i have a pa1500.1 and i came across a orion hcca d2400 for cheap but my friend told me that it would only put out 1200 rms and to just keep my pa1500.1 what do you all think would put out more power?
  23. Soccerballzs

    Hard Maple Woofer Box?

    Hey looking to build a solid hard maple sub woofer box. Thickness of maple will finish out at 1.75 thick. Interior will have 6 coats of lacquer finish along with the outside. Port will be constructed out of Hickory. Wonder what it will sound like. This is going to be a butcher block design to keep the boards from moving. Been doing wood working for 32 years know all about wood and movement. Box is going to loaded with 1-Orion 10.4 HCCA woofer. 1.25 sq. 4.5x4.5x9.5 port size.