Omega5002 Posted July 25, 2013 Report Posted July 25, 2013 Copper bolts are hard to find, and expensive Can't be that hard to find Did a search for copper bolts on ebay. This came up http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-20-COPPER-HEX-BOLTS-LOT-OF-6-SEE-PICS-/181175594959?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2ee82fcf $2/bolt. Not really that much when you consider say... a $200 subwoofer, $80 box, $80 in wiring, $200 amp, etc Yeah I know about the ebay ones, but still what gain will one get from using copper bolts instead of brass bolts, cause if I buy those, well I would have to buy 12 cause I would need 8 for my box, and then find nuts/washers for them, and then buy a compound to prevent oxidation. Instead of all that headache, I just go to Lowes/Home Depot, buy brass bolts with nuts and washers, and be done with it. If I have some lose in conductivity, well then I compensate with bigger wire. Plus if copper bolts made so much of a difference, AMICustoms, the electrical nazi, would have bought them, but no, he's using brass bolt cause he knows they work fine, and they've been working fine for an 18k+ rms. Hell, Steve Meade used stainless steel bolts for his 30k rms system, and he had no issue. I understand about your ofc>cca deal, but seriously, copper bolts just for the sake of being copper. 2003 Kia Sorento Team Subsonic LowsTeam Bassin' on a Budget2016 Rebuild Under Construction Best score: 150.2 at 40hz (3k, 2 Custom HDC3 15's) Usaci style(door open, in the kick)
Chris Hammer Posted July 25, 2013 Report Posted July 25, 2013 My deal is if anyone is that worried about bolts, what about the other wire terminations on your system...the bots on your xs power batt, buss bars, amp terminals...ALL not copper. just saying, not bashing or picking sides or trying to argue, at least I think we can all agree bolts < terminal cups. MY BUILD *****http://tinyurl.com/gmcbuild***** Vehicles 2005 GMC Canyon CB1000r - Currently where any future funds are going. (exhasut,bazzaz, ohlins shock, screen, etc.) crf250r - Used to be race bike..now I just trail ride..practice at the track on it. CH80 - Daily beater (when nice weather)best 150$ ever spent. 100+mpg Sold to: Skullz - pstone11 - Leo1103 - Volvo 63' - pavelpardo - imnew59585 Shower farts still piss me off.I think theyre pretty neat. When the water runs down your crack as you let one out... its like shitting in a crockpot.
Sutliff Posted July 25, 2013 Report Posted July 25, 2013 My deal is if anyone is that worried about bolts, what about the other wire terminations on your system...the bots on your xs power batt, buss bars, amp terminals...ALL not copper. just saying, not bashing or picking sides or trying to argue, at least I think we can all agree bolts < terminal cups. ^^^ I think you might want to turn that around? ^^^ Zeke '14 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS Vehicle Details & Mod List: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/1703-chevrolet-monte-carlo-ss/ Audio Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143276-2003-chevy-monte-carlo-ss-audio-build-ib-build Pioneer FH-P8000BT Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 Fi IB3 (Two 12", 2-ohm SVC) RF T400-2 & T500-1bdCP MechMan S Series 240A XS Power D3400 & D975
SnowDrifter Posted July 25, 2013 Report Posted July 25, 2013 Copper bolts are hard to find, and expensive Can't be that hard to find Did a search for copper bolts on ebay. This came up http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-20-COPPER-HEX-BOLTS-LOT-OF-6-SEE-PICS-/181175594959?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2ee82fcf $2/bolt. Not really that much when you consider say... a $200 subwoofer, $80 box, $80 in wiring, $200 amp, etc Yeah I know about the ebay ones, but still what gain will one get from using copper bolts instead of brass bolts, cause if I buy those, well I would have to buy 12 cause I would need 8 for my box, and then find nuts/washers for them, and then buy a compound to prevent oxidation. Instead of all that headache, I just go to Lowes/Home Depot, buy brass bolts with nuts and washers, and be done with it. If I have some lose in conductivity, well then I compensate with bigger wire. Plus if copper bolts made so much of a difference, AMICustoms, the electrical nazi, would have bought them, but no, he's using brass bolt cause he knows they work fine, and they've been working fine for an 18k+ rms. Hell, Steve Meade used stainless steel bolts for his 30k rms system, and he had no issue. I understand about your ofc>cca deal, but seriously, copper bolts just for the sake of being copper. I never actually said to use them. My copper/aluminum comment was in response to someone saying that using brass would yield the least resistance. Then me linking the copper bolts to you was because you said they were hard to find. In all honesty I say use aluminum bolts for the box. Reason being that there isn't a large market for copper bolts, so that drives the price up. And for conductivity, it's still cheaper to get a thicker Aluminum bolt and drill out the terminal than it is to use a copper bolt. Unlike in the cca vs. copper argument where you are limited in gauge size, getting a larger size aluminum wire isn't exactly economical (which was my entire argument, that many times copper is more economical than CCA) Anyhoo..... Sorry for that derailment, OP. If you want terminals, get the ones I posted. If you want an actual terminal cup, you can get blank terminal plates here http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-110 ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
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