Hugh G. Rection Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 the thing i love about aeroports is the flexibility... the only bad thing about them is that you gotta fiberglass reinforce them to get best performance out of them because they are flimsy as hell. Owner of BigAss Ports Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 But don't forget a cylinder naturally braces itself. Like building a subwoofer from 1/4" thick cardboard sonotube. . . Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh G. Rection Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 But don't forget a cylinder naturally braces itself. Like building a subwoofer from 1/4" thick cardboard sonotube. . . aero's come alive after you fiberglass reinforce them. Owner of BigAss Ports Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jskiles Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 2010 Kia Forte Koup (Slow Build) 2 Sundown SCV-3000D 2 DC XL M1 with PSI reconesFocal R-165s2 on Orion 4800-HPKenwood KDC-X798Knukonceptz OFC 1/0Audiotechnix,Fatmat and Q-mat Deadener XS power D3400 up front 3 D3100s power in trunkStock 110 amp alt 2013 Scion TC 2 Dc lvl 3s with xl coils on Soundqubed 2200 Sundown components AA 50.2 for components Pioneer FH-X700BT Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 Fatmat and Q-mat Deadener XS Power D3100 up front D925 in back Mechman 240 alt http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/189911-2013-scion-tc-build/ <Scion TC Build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174094-jskiles-forte-koup/ <Slow Kia Forte Buildhttp://www.stevemead...ockUserAgent__1 < Old build 2005 Equinox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh G. Rection Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 by what? Owner of BigAss Ports Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jskiles Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 by what? By this thread. I'm still new to car audio and from what I'm reading about ports is making me want to tear down my box I'm building now and do some more research. 2010 Kia Forte Koup (Slow Build) 2 Sundown SCV-3000D 2 DC XL M1 with PSI reconesFocal R-165s2 on Orion 4800-HPKenwood KDC-X798Knukonceptz OFC 1/0Audiotechnix,Fatmat and Q-mat Deadener XS power D3400 up front 3 D3100s power in trunkStock 110 amp alt 2013 Scion TC 2 Dc lvl 3s with xl coils on Soundqubed 2200 Sundown components AA 50.2 for components Pioneer FH-X700BT Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 Fatmat and Q-mat Deadener XS Power D3100 up front D925 in back Mechman 240 alt http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/189911-2013-scion-tc-build/ <Scion TC Build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174094-jskiles-forte-koup/ <Slow Kia Forte Buildhttp://www.stevemead...ockUserAgent__1 < Old build 2005 Equinox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 by what? By this thread. I'm still new to car audio and from what I'm reading about ports is making me want to tear down my box I'm building now and do some more research. Definetely worth it. Like Hugh said, I was a guy spitting out general rules of thumb. I don't do it anymore because I really don't know, since I have realized that I have sat down to do more research, I still barely know shit but a little bit more. And honestly, what I am going to do for now on. Is before I start a new build, just build several sheets of some cheap wood. Build several boxes and test out different port area's. Compare 2 of the same port areas to eachother, same depth, just different widths. That is really the best way to learn. Experiment. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruteforce650 Posted March 18, 2017 Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 On 8/17/2013 at 7:32 PM, Hugh G. Rection said: well, there is alot of stuff that goes into figuring a port. your port size is dictated by many many things. the shape of the port contributes in that it is directly relevant to the efficiency of the port. the actual depth of the enclosure contributes to it since the depth of the enclosure will also have to be considered since it affects the internal wavelength, and how that will relate to the tuning of the port. the amount of power to the sub will affect its mechanical power handling, so there be an appropriate amount of back pressure inside the enclosure to help keep the sub under control mechanically, and there must be an appropriate compromise between mechanical control and cycling enough air to keep the subs thermal power handling in check. also, the proximity of the driver to any internal panels of the vehicle and how that affects the amount of forward pressure on the sub, and therefore also the mechanical power handling. there are a few more factors involved as well, and this is the reason why i dont really offer many enclosure suggestions online beyond fabrication techniques and such. i only design enclosures for vehicles that i have here with me. with access to vehicle, i can verify all of my information and design the enclosure properly and get optimal performance out of it. i am old school in that i believe that if a project is worth doing, then its worth doing right. i just cant bring myself to spread bullshit information online or design half ass enclosures that are about as far away from optimal as something can be. any generalized rule of thumb you try to use is only enough information to be dangerous. joe x is a prime example of this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruteforce650 Posted March 18, 2017 Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 I signed up just so I could say AMEN to this post about how much information is needed to make a proper port and box. Box and port placement (design) has a lot to do with keeping the woofers under control. I installed professionally from about 1987 to 2003. The hay days of car audio. We didnt have computer programs to calc boxes and ports, we had scientific calculators and plenty of scratch paper and pretty much memorized Theile / Small calculations. ( I know Blaubox was out early on). I now have a 16 year old kid who is getting into car audio, he comes home telling me this car audio store has a box for his truck (2005 f150 crew cab) that fits 2 10 inch subs, he wants me to buy it. I asked him what subs is the box designed for, he says "they told me any 10 inch woofers". I told him no way, its junk. So off to Home Depot we went and picked up some 3/4 MDF, fiberglass resin, wood glue etc. Picked up 2 Fosgate p2d4-12s. I have a huge collection of old school amps. I should have taken pictures but was not really thinking about getting on any forums. He now has a very clean system, Fosgate Power 800@2 running 2 OHM bridged. ( I know its below Fosgate's recommendations). Fosgate 400@4 running mids and tweets. He is loving it. He really wanted to install my old school Fosgate Power 650 and Power 300 but I just couldn't. He hated going through the math for a several hours but now is telling his buddies that the pre-made boxes they bought from Walmart and Ebay are not right. Also know this is an old thread, hope I didnt offend anyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted March 18, 2017 Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 Welcome to SMD. Glad to see you found us. Stick around and take some pictures to post if you can. I love the old school stuff. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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