hazestorm23 Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 It might be the security ones they have like a dot in the middle that doesn't let the screw go all the way in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 try a torx bit CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonolith2001 Posted August 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 It's definitely not a security key but you might be right about the torx bit. I will have to find my torx set and report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonolith2001 Posted September 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Torx didn't work either, Torx 15 is slightly too big and Torx 10 is too small. I was about to just put some needle nose visegrips on them but they are so close to the edge I wouldn't be able to turn it. They are in there VERY tight too. What the hell? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonolith2001 Posted September 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 Holy shit you guys. With some creative use of the vice grip and a lot of patience I got it open. Those screws where in there ridiculously tight. So tight it was bending in the back panel around the screw holes! I tried to take a guts shot but my sd card reader is apparently broken and I lost the cable that came with my camera. There are already better gut shots of ZR1000s out there than what my crappy camera phone will do. Anyway - This guy had no idea what he was talking about. Its fucking flawless. There isn't even a finger print on the inside. Nothing is melted or burned. No bulging capacitors. Nothing loose or hanging. Nothing bent. It looks like it is brand new. The PCB is almost glowing. Even the serial sticker or whatever that is still has a bright white color and hasn't peeled at all. The worst thing I can say is there was a little bit of saw dust on the inside which I just blew out. As far as his speaker cable coming loose story goes It doesn't even look like that would do anything because the chassis doesn't touch anything metal. I think I just got a fully working ZR1000 for the price of a Walmart amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin0943 Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 dang nice, as for the mosfet and transistor sometime you can't tell just like my old amp looks brand new took some of the transistor they stayed open no matter what but hook it up and see what it does 02 dodge ram 1500 reg cab 3rd gen 2 sundown sd-2 d4 soundstream rub1.2500 amp all sky high car audio-fuse,fuse holder,wire,ring lugs and rca flex tech box design by Joe X supension-mcgaughys 2in drop spindal ,western chassis 6in flip kit,buddy custom c-notch 04 5.7l hemi motor swap and made it an slt eletric everthing youtube channel-http://www.youtube.c...43?feature=mhee http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/190882-02-dodge-ram-1500-3rd-gen/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonolith2001 Posted September 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 While I was playing around with my oscope and my other amp I did hook it up and it seems to power up and work fine. I don't have a clamp or anything so I can't measure watts but it got crazy loud so it seems to work fine! If it truly is putting out less than its supposed to its a very small amount. From what I recall it sounded about the same as my other one. I haven't had it in for awhile so its hard to say I really noticed any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncochran Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 While you can't check watts, you could check output voltage. If the voltage on both amps is about the same, the wattage should be the same too I believe. Sounds like you might have caught a sweet deal lol. 2006 Scion xB 2 Sundown SA12D2 Ported at 32hz 147 on non termlab (140-142 on TL) Currently in a walled 4th @ 50hz (not metered yet) Hifonics brz2100 Alpine Type-S Components Kicker 300.2 Big 3 / Skyhigh 1/0 cca Optima Blue Top 3 e8s ported at 32hz 135.1 sealed on dash @ 56hz 135.0 outlaw (I must have chosen song poorly lol) Build log 'Brandon15zzz', on 09 May 2012 - 3:13 PM, said: May have been clipping but none fucks were givin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonolith2001 Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 ah that's a good idea! Would I be able to do this with two different amps just to see which one is more powerful than the other without having an actual wattage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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