wrexxy Posted September 8, 2013 Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 i've been reading that speakers take a while to break in, but i have a feeling that is just a load of bs. I just installed Image Dynamic CTX65cs and CTX65 coaxials in my 2013 wrx hatch in the stock door locations (tweets in sail panels). The lack of midbass from these things is extremely surprising, since the majority of the reviews i've read have said that they take power and hit hard down to 60 hz. I have a ton of test and tuning tones that I got from the post "tune tones" or something like that on this forum. So i threw on a couple of tones: 100, 150, 200, 300,(all at -5dB) and the speakers still weren't producing much in terms of volume. I have the EQ all flat (could be the problem?), set the HU max volume with an oscope and 1000Hz 0dB tone, set the gain with a 1000Hz -5dB tone using the oscope with the speakers connected. The amp (Polk Audio PA4000D.4) didn't clip until ~130 watts but i turned it down slightly to about ~120 watts. The tweeters sound great (a little overwhelming due to a lack of midbass), but I'm just puzzled as to why the woofers aren't performing. The doors are about ~95% covered in deadener, which i used to cover all the holes in the door panel that i could. The speakers are on spacers with a gasket of the deadener around the baskey hole, and the spacers are sitting on a layer of the deadener and foam to cushion and seal it to the door. i also threw on my sundown saz1000d for shits and giggles to see if it was an amp problem, but still no midbass response. I'm lost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 8, 2013 Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 what are the high pass filters set at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrexxy Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 I just set them on my headunit for now and will probably set them on the amp when I get my sub in. The fronts and rears are both set at 80 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrexxy Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 I have the amps set to full through and for good practice the hpf knob is turned all the way down and the lpf if turned all the way up on the amp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrd6 Posted September 8, 2013 Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 Elaborate on the install a bit more. What is "stock location" in your car? Are the doors treated at all with sound deadening? Do you have them sealed off so the rear wave isn't cancelling the front wave? Midbass in a car will depend far more on a good install than it will the speakers themselves. I do firmly believe that mids will break in a bit more over time and produce more midbass (I have always experienced this in my installs ) but its not a crazy change. You should still be getting decent output with a freah driver. My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...-sundown-power/ Team NorthWestSPL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrd6 Posted September 8, 2013 Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 Reading > me lol missed your install description the first time. Sounds like you did a pretty good job then. Have you tried playing only one door at a time? If you have decent output with only one door than it is likely a phase issue between the two sides and adjusting that could help. My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...-sundown-power/ Team NorthWestSPL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted September 8, 2013 Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 I'm not sure about mids/highs, absolutely no idea in fact but for subs I feel as though they are stiff when new and can loosen up and have potential to play frequencies slightly better sounding, of course that's open for debate. I am not saying to not pound the ever loving shit out of them right away, just saying they are stiff when new and I can tell. 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted September 8, 2013 Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 install is the key. Nothing wrong with the speakers. Reinstall with more deadener. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted September 8, 2013 Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 install is the key. Nothing wrong with the speakers. Reinstall with more deadener. I'd like to argue that point. 120 sq feet of deadener in my car so far. Thinking about more. AT least 15sq feet per door. As sealed off as it can get. Literally 200% coverage with holes poked(not even cut) through for the clips. Polk mm6501 woofers can't hit a note under 100hz for the life if them. Either that or I'm expecting hertz XL response out of Polk woofers. I'm not bashing the polks but they killed me in my last SQ comp. I was doing awesome except for the mid bass and the woofers lack of output "dragging" my soundstage down" I've done almost everything possible for those speakers besides build custom door panels with sealed door pods which I'm not allowed to do unless I move up a division. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrexxy Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 The inner door is about 95% covered, only slight opening is where the door handle wire comes out, outer door is more like 75% covered. And I've faded all directions to see show it sounds, still no bass response. Switched polarity no change, I'm dumb founded. All speakers are having the same issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.