Dual Alt Setup Need Big 3 Help

[get_us]

Ok so here's the deal.

I just picked up a 2011 Tahoe and am ready to start my build. I have ordered a DC Power Dual Alt Kit and plan on keeping the stock battery and stock alt as they are for just the stock electrical. I want to have the High output alt to only run my system. On this Tahoe the stock battery location is on the passenger side near the firewall. There is a second battery tray on the drivers side near the radiator.

My question is if i stuff a XS Power battery under the hood in the second location would I use that battery to run the wires for my Big 3 Upgrade? Or would I do it on both batteries?

I just want to be clear before I get started thanks.

I'll throw up a few pics below.

The New Hoe!

Stock Battery Location

Second Battery Location. Where I plan on sticking a XS Power D3100

[TeamHT]

You can do both, or just the alternator and battery charging the system but my question is...is there a reason why you're wanting to separated the charging systems? If it were me, I would just run both alts as one charging systems. Or if you're not installing a large setup just run one larger alternator

[get_us]

You can do both, or just the alternator and battery charging the system but my question is...is there a reason why you're wanting to separated the charging systems? If it were me, I would just run both alts as one charging systems. Or if you're not installing a large setup just run one larger alternator

I was told that this would out perform a single high output alt. My dual alt kit ships out next week so this is what I plan to do.

So would I gain anything by doing the Big 3 on the stock alt and battery or should I just do it on the high output alt and dedicated system front battery?

[CNF Kevosinn]

HT the reason is because the stock alt is pcm controlled on his truck. Mine is the same way. the stock alt wont turn on unless it see's 12.3 volts and with the second alt always on charging at 14.9 even with drop the alt in stk location wont turn on

[TeamHT]

Outperforming really will depend on the current draw but maybe it is, I don't know what gear you're running and you didn't state.

You can do the big 3 if you want in the primary location but I don't see a benefit there, the wiring is perfectly fine for what the vehicle will pull through it.

[Karkov]

exactly as Kevin said. i would keep them separate as well if I were you, lol, that PCM controlled shit sucks for aftermarket amps IMO (compared to externally regulated aftermarket HO alts) lol

mainly big 3 for aftermarket battery but you could do both for peace of mind, although it wouldn't really help the factory side of things.

[get_us]

Ok cool thanks for the help guys. That clears it up. And yes that PCM was the issue and why I went dual alts.

Sub stage for now is gonna be a single Fi 18" SP4 powered by a RF T2500-1bdcp

[bassman619]

if you're gonna be running your stock alternator and h/o alternators as 2 different charging systems i dont really see the point in even touching the wires on the stock alternator. im assuming you're going to run wires from the alternators to the xs battery right? so the car's pcm shouldnt see a difference at all. the whole reason people change out the wire on the alternator and the grounds is because they replace the stock alternator with the h/o. the stock wire cant really handle much more than 100 amps of current so it needs to be changed to allow more current. im assuming your putting in alotta watts so i would go 0 guage wire on the h/o alts, on the battery ground, and everything else having to do with the system. but its a waste of time and money for you to change the stock wires in your particular case.

[get_us]

if you're gonna be running your stock alternator and h/o alternators as 2 different charging systems i dont really see the point in even touching the wires on the stock alternator. im assuming you're going to run wires from the alternators to the xs battery right? so the car's pcm shouldnt see a difference at all. the whole reason people change out the wire on the alternator and the grounds is because they replace the stock alternator with the h/o. the stock wire cant really handle much more than 100 amps of current so it needs to be changed to allow more current. im assuming your putting in alotta watts so i would go 0 guage wire on the h/o alts, on the battery ground, and everything else having to do with the system. but its a waste of time and money for you to change the stock wires in your particular case.

Ya, Cool man thanks for the input!

[get_us]

Anyone with a 07 or newer Tahoe like mine know the best spot to run the 1/0 gauge wire to the back?

Any good spot on the firewall to punch threw or should I run it under the by the frame?