_paralyzed_ Posted September 27, 2013 Report Share Posted September 27, 2013 I've been trying to figure out the port for my box, and have tried several box calculators and get waaaaay different numbers. Can someone just tell me the height/length/width of the port I need? And could someone tell me basic port rules or link me to good info? Okay. The box is for 4 15" Boston Acoustics G2 subs with 13mm xmax. The outside dimensions are 48"x24"x30". Double Baffle, 3/4" board. 16.68 cubes internal before anything. After woofer and bracing displacement there are 15 cubic feet available. I want it tuned to 35 hz. I want the woofers in the corners of the 48"x30" piece, with the port in the middle, not sharing any walls with the enclosure. The port can extend outside the box if necessary. Any other info needed? Thanks to anyone that can help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Or is a "slot loaded" (shared wall port) the better way to go? Why won't anyone help me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Try Torres Easiest most simply and accurate free software around It's in the sub/enclosure section of this forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 I'd give at least 200" of port. Those dimensions must be for a wall I'm assuming? So 200" of port you can do a 15X14(210" of port) port or just do 15X15(225") which puts you in a good range I'd say. Here is the thing though. With your available airspace and running preference, you don't have enough depth in the enclosure to get a proper square port, one that doesn't share any common walls. A 15X15" would need to be like 20" deep. The 14X15" would need to be like 16 or so inches deep. That doesn't leave you enough clearance until the back of the box on either option, since you typically want the width of the port clearance from the back wall of the enclosure. My suggestion would be to run a slot port, centered between the subs. it will way into your volume, but it's the only way I can see it working for you. A slot with a height of 28.5(I'd personally double wall or 2X4" outer shell the enclosure since this is a wall) would be 7.5" wide. This slot port will eat into your volume. The only next opt-in would be to run a few aero ports. 4 6" ports maybe? Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker8940 Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Deleted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Those subs are designed for sealed, also are 300W 12.5mm Xmax... Building a wall for that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin M Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 I found the T/s parameters for the subs. http://www.hificarcenter.it/ec/images/file_e-commerce/boston_inglese/G2_Man.pdf You have the cone area. It should get loud. It does have a high qts but that shouldn't rule out a ported enclosure. Hey Joe; crazy idea. Instead of busting balls why not give him some recommendations on port size. 2005 Ford Focus zx4 AMT's and Planars 18" Infinite baffle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 I don't mind the above design. That's without me knowing ANYTHING about the subs in question, or WHAT they prefer. With the given dimensions, that box seems pretty damn good. Paralyzed, my input will be this: A box that large will need more than just one outer layer of MDF OR some bracing in the form of dowels, threaded rod(all thread) and/or fiberglass work. Even if you're m the subs don't move a lot of air, that's a lot of big, flat space that will be prime to flex and possibly destroy itself. This is just my $.02 as far as building the enclosure goes. I'm going to click that link and download the spec sheet. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Upon looking at the specs, I agree with Joe on this one. The EBP will HEAVILY support a sealed environment, not a ported one. EBP is at 30.58. This number is well below the 50-90 range that will suit either style enclosure. So a sealed wall could be your option, or drop two subs out of the equation and design a bandpass 4th order. If ported is still desired, the box above would probably work out fine, if bracing is added. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 I appreciate the help sooo much guys! Thank you!!! The box will go in the back of a full size van, not walled. I want to run ported for the extra db's. The literature for the subs gives recommendations for both sealed and ported. The box will be extensively braced and my amp does have a subsonic filter. Since the EBP is at 30.58 am I just foolish to put these in a ported enclosure? I only paid $65 a sub, so I jumped on them. I had no idea subs even had an "EBP" lol. I want as many db's as possible, but if ported won't sound good let me know. This system is for music only and will never be metered. I want a "rolling boom box" to be made out of my van. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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