CodyLucente Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Posted October 1, 2013 Bump Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
Kyblack76 Posted October 1, 2013 Report Posted October 1, 2013 What is your draw? first of all???? SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
CodyLucente Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Posted October 1, 2013 Have not put the amps in yet but 105amp alt and idk my draw Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
TeamHT Posted October 1, 2013 Report Posted October 1, 2013 You know, knowing exactly what would be drawing current might be good Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?
Rich Schenk Posted October 2, 2013 Report Posted October 2, 2013 DITCH THE CAP! get a good altenator ohio gen, dc, singer, mechman do big 3 and ground to the frame or if unibody to shock tower get a good starting batt (biggest xs power u can fit) get a big xs batt for the back do 2 runs of that welding wire to the back or more if possible overkill is always better then underkill On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded
03 Xtreme Fosgate Posted October 2, 2013 Report Posted October 2, 2013 Excessive Amperage make some good alts as well,don't pass looking them up either. BUILD LOG-http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179004-03-s10-xtreme-ext-cab-rf-build/ PHOTOBUCKET- http://s1354.beta.photobucket.com/user/03XtremeFosgate/library/truck%20audio%20rebuild
truthsayer Posted October 2, 2013 Report Posted October 2, 2013 with the power you are running, you don't need 2 batteries. Do as the the other guy said get the biggest xs battery that works in you vehicle. Upgrade alternator to a minimum of 270 amps. A,320 or even a 370 would be great. big 3 is key. But dont waste the money on a second battery, when its not needed. with those 2 amps you listed. Use the extra batt money on a AVBM ( automatic voltage boost module) you can set the charge at 15.1 volts with xs batt, and should have no light dimming or other issues. truthsayer
CodyLucente Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Posted October 2, 2013 DITCH THE CAP! get a good altenator ohio gen, dc, singer, mechman do big 3 and ground to the frame or if unibody to shock tower get a good starting batt (biggest xs power u can fit) get a big xs batt for the back do 2 runs of that welding wire to the back or more if possible overkill is always better then underkill Again was lookin for cost effective not spend 600$ on power. And I am happy with my yellowtop (I bought it new) why replace what's not broken? I will add another batt that is xs but not replace this one for one.The big 3 is a definite. And I don't think I have enough wire for 2 runs. And yes ditch the cap got it. I mean the wire is Double zero so I mean It should be more than overkill in itself. How much is a new alt? What if I did a second single wire alt instead of replacing mine or getting it rebuilt? Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
TeamHT Posted October 2, 2013 Report Posted October 2, 2013 What is your draw? first of all???? You know, knowing exactly what would be drawing current might be good Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?
CodyLucente Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Posted October 2, 2013 I was just thinking second alt because I know (or think I know) high output alt's give more power at top end but less at bottom end or lower rpm's Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
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