Golitan11 Posted October 22, 2013 Report Posted October 22, 2013 - Car: Toyota Matrix XR 2004 - Speakers: stock 6.5" - Headunit: Pioneer DEH-X7500S - Subwoofer: Sundown SA-12 - Amplifier: Hifonics BRX1100.1D - Other: I don't have an amplifier for my speakers and I will not get one. I want a set of speakers (or components if it is really worth it over regular) that I will feel without amp. You know that feeling when you feel the speakers and it gives you goosebumps? Something that will just be right with my subwoofer too. If possible under 100$ a pair. Don't need to be exact models, at least the best brands for my needs. Thanks.
Krakin Posted October 22, 2013 Report Posted October 22, 2013 It'll be hard to get a set for under $100. Save up for a good set of components and crossovers. Krakin's Home Dipole Project http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370 Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist? I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself but what has drawn your attention in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears, thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.
CleanSierra Posted October 22, 2013 Report Posted October 22, 2013 Nothing on HU power, period. Why are you so unwilling to buy an amp for mids and highs and doing it PROPERLY? Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.
seafish Posted October 22, 2013 Report Posted October 22, 2013 Going out on a limb for my first post by recommending something, BUT, I am really loving the Polk DB651 coaxials in the rear doors of my Ram quad cab. They are smooth and natural sounding with tight bass, AND have a high sensativity of 92db/1 watt. At 4 ohms they handle 5-55 watts with an peak power rating of 165 watts. You can even get them in either a regular or shallow mount depth with the same specs. Mine are the shallow mount and ran only $65 through amazon. I think that with your sub, they will sound awesome. I liked them so much, that I replaced the Alpine SPS690 in the front doors with the Polk db691, which made the whole truck sound even better...All that being said, I AM using an external Boston Acoustics GT754 amp to power them, but I am sure that with their relatively high sensitivity, your pioneer HU would have no problem with them.
Krakin Posted October 22, 2013 Report Posted October 22, 2013 oops double post. HA! Welcome to the forum man! Now to address you recommendation, I would suggest going with component versions over coaxial. The tweeters on those are silk/polymer dome. Silk domes have a "soft" and "warm" sound. I'm not too sure how the polymer will effect that. The woofers however are polymer/mica. I personally don't like plastic domes. I would suggest looking for something with either a paper cone or a woven fiber cone. Krakin's Home Dipole Project http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370 Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist? I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself but what has drawn your attention in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears, thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.
Golitan11 Posted October 22, 2013 Author Report Posted October 22, 2013 @CleanSierra I don't want to buy an amplifier because I am already really borderline on my voltage with my subwoofer amplifier (I only did Big 3) and from what I have heard (amplified speakers), I think it is not really worth it for the price that you pay (only makes your speakers louder with only A BIT more SQ). The problem with car audio is you get addicted to quality and after, you are not able to recommend something under your experiences (nothing will come to your mind), even if it is good. For example, now that I have a Sundown subwoofer, I am not able to say to anybody that a Alpine Type-R subwoofer is good, because I have better and I would recommend my Sundown over it anyday (I would even insist). But in reality, the Type-R will play bass pretty decently and it is not bad, even for the same price! This is sad but true, I am myself like that now. But the difference is I am aware of it. I am telling you this because you seem to do the same thing in a lot of posts, which is telling what to do just like there is no other way out, while there is. For example, the kind of reply I would get for the amplifier and voltage issue is it is time to upgrade your electrical system (batteries, alternators, etc.), just like if running speakers without an amplifier is even not a suitable option and just for the need of an amplifier that will makes only a small difference, which is completely unnecessary! So sorry CleanSierra, running speakers with an amplifier is not more "proper" than running it through the HU, it is just a better choice. P.S. Sorry for my bad attitude and don't take it personal, this is just my point of view. @Everyone Now, since amplifiers are better, I will make a choice to keep my budget and make CleanSierra happy: buy an amplifier (if you guys think I can handle it with my actual electrical setup) with only a pair of speakers or components (for the front doors) or buy two pairs of speakers or components (for the front and rear doors) without amplifier. Everything under 200$ (I said 100$ / pair). If possible, just post your speaker/component/amplifier suggestions with your vote. By the way, I am more looking for a soft and warm sound (like Krakin said), more than a crisp sound (gets annoying IMO). @seafish Welcome to the forum dude! By the way thanks for your input, I was just considering buying Polk Audi DB651 a few months ago. They seem to be pretty nice!
n8ball2013 Posted October 22, 2013 Report Posted October 22, 2013 whoever told you there is no benefit to amping your interiors is flat out wrong and Id put the type r int he same class as an SA actually especially hte new ones rated at 1000 watts. your budget is going to kill you. You just aren't spending enough to get something nice. You could add 50 bucks to that and get a decent set but thats where they usually price point a nice set of comps. Then start saving for an amp. The difference is remarkable from not amped and using head unit power to amped properly. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
Krakin Posted October 22, 2013 Report Posted October 22, 2013 If you haven't amplified your speakers I would strongly recommend getting a amp with strong qualities. I have noticed strong differences between HU power and a good amp. If you really are too worried about voltage, you can look at the Rockford T1 & T2 on Sonic. Krakin's Home Dipole Project http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370 Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist? I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself but what has drawn your attention in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears, thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.
BoomZoom808 Posted October 22, 2013 Report Posted October 22, 2013 I picked up a cheap ass set of Alpine Type E comps. They go for under $40 each shipped and are pretty decent for the price IMO. You could do two sets for under a 100$ and they should work off HU power. For shits and giggles I even bridged 1 mid and the tweeter to a Kenwood KAC-1502S full range free air on my test bench and it took it like a champ. 2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS Knu OFC 1/0 SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750 Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5 IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12
BoomZoom808 Posted October 22, 2013 Report Posted October 22, 2013 Let me add that I am trying to argue the theory of amping mids as the best option I am just offering a cheap alternative. 2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS Knu OFC 1/0 SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750 Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5 IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12
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