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2alt, 3batt setup, few pre-install questions


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Posted

Hey guys,

I didn't see an intro post section on this site. Name's Kevin, I'm a Server Admin from NW Arkansas. I was an installer at a big box retailer in a previous life, been creepin' this site for about 3 years now. Much respect for Steve and everyone that comes together to help out here.

I'll give you the gist of my truck:

2005 crew cab silverado, HD front end swap, other things...

I have the 270 XP Dual alternator kit from DC Power https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/2005~Chevrolet~Silverado~5.3L-V8/gm-and-chevy-vortec-dual-alternator-kit-with-270-amp-xp-series-alternator.html

2 Addictive Audio 10.4ABs

1 Addictive Audio 100.1D

2 Crescendo Audio PWX-8"s

Pair of Pioneer TS-D 6.5" Components (Front Stage)

Pioneer TS-D 6.5" Coax (rear stage)

2 Vital Powercells VP-500s

2 Addictive Audio Version 2 10"s

Stock Cranking battery

Debating on an RF 360.2

My question is... once the electrical is hooked up. Will I run my 1/0 from the second alt to the two VP 500s (isolating them off the first alt, and from the crank battery), and also ground the two VP-500s to the frame with one run of 1/0?

My concern is that I'm essentially isolating the pair of audio batteries from the crank battery... but then grounding them to the same ground path, especially since both alternators are on the same ground path... everything is 12v. I've just never done this type of setup.

I'm fairly certain I know the answer (I ground the batteries to the frame, run the 1/0 from second alt to the two batteries, then batteries to amps, fuse em, call it done), but just want to make sure. I never dealt with dual kits in the past, just alt swaps.

If I'm missing details, my apologies. I'm just ready to get this done, but just need to back up my concern with some more expert knowledge.

Thanks in advance!

Posted

I'm not a dual alt guy, so I can't answer. But, welcome to the forum! I'm sure you will get a few good answers when some people come across this. Good starting question.

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Realm L56c Audiophile 6.5 comps up front JBL P963 rear deck PB RTA 112 trunk CE Auto Big 3 Mechman 240alt D'Amore VM-1

Posted

Thank you, I know there's a plethora of knowledge here. I'm sure someone will be able to set me straight.

Posted

Welcome.

Nice gear.

So what's your concern? Do you have 2 alts runnin different voltage?if not Isolation is no big deal.

No, both alts and all batts are 12V. My concern is if I'm missing a step/ product/ etc in this process. To the best of my knowledge, and reading countless builds and trying to dissect what I could form them, my understanding is this:

1/0 run from the alt to the audio batteries obviously fusing where needed

Run audio batteries in parrallel, ground to frame

The reason behind all this questioning is that I have never had to alts and two sets of batteries, so bare with me as this probably seems like a real n00b question. But I just wanna make sure I'm not missing something.

Take for instance, the fact that my remote turn on is coming off my radio, which comes off my cranking battery. Since my audio batteries are isolated (sorta, right?) and I'm using power and ground from them, I have doubts about how that works.

.... I'm kinda answering some of my own questions here, I think. But just want to be sure I'm doing all this correctly. Thanks for looking into this.

Posted

im pretty sure that you'll be alright. at least when i think of it as just like simple circuit and stuff. they're just sharing a common ground return path.

and you say everything is 12v but are the audio batteries agm and the cranking wet cell? cause those have different resting voltages and it won't be a problem if their isolated but just wanna make sure your aware of that.

and the signal wire shouldn't be a problem. it's just sending a 12v signal to the amp with respect to ground. since ground is the same, doesn't matter if it's from the audio batteries or the cranking battery. it's still a 12v difference to ground.

~ If it was easy, everybody would be doing it ~

Posted

im pretty sure that you'll be alright. at least when i think of it as just like simple circuit and stuff. they're just sharing a common ground return path.

and you say everything is 12v but are the audio batteries agm and the cranking wet cell? cause those have different resting voltages and it won't be a problem if their isolated but just wanna make sure your aware of that.

and the signal wire shouldn't be a problem. it's just sending a 12v signal to the amp with respect to ground. since ground is the same, doesn't matter if it's from the audio batteries or the cranking battery. it's still a 12v difference to ground.

Thanks a ton, that's exactly what I was thinking the outcome would be... was sure I was just paranoid!

The Audio batteries are AGM and the cranking battery is standard run-of-the-mill wet cell battery. It will be replaced with an AGM battery soon.

Thanks guys, I knew I'd find what I need here.

Posted

I'm assuming that you have one stock alt and then the 270 XP.....two electrical systems has worked really well for me.

power from 270 xp to audio batts, then to amps (ground batts and amp to frame)

and use the stock alt left as it was stock running the trucks electrical. This way your lights will never dim

ground to the frame, batteries in parallel....I have had bad experiences running amps ground to battery negative.

Posted

I've been thinking about the same thing as you with dual alts, with the stock alt in place and a DC Power 320SPX-i....Can't decide to keep all the batteries hooked up together or separate them like you mentioned. Anyone have any experience or done any testing with this? How "isolated" is it with the same negative path?

Also, funny how we both have 2005 chevys! haha

97 Suburban

8 custom PSI Platform 3 18's

Posted

I'm assuming that you have one stock alt and then the 270 XP.....two electrical systems has worked really well for me.

power from 270 xp to audio batts, then to amps (ground batts and amp to frame)

and use the stock alt left as it was stock running the trucks electrical. This way your lights will never dim

ground to the frame, batteries in parallel....I have had bad experiences running amps ground to battery negative.

Thank you for that, I probably would have grounded to battery - since it runs to the frame.... But I would be going around the standard method of grounding amp to frame, so that was a good reminder.

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