David Bailey Posted October 25, 2013 Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 Ok, so my car came with an aftermarket alarm. It has been acting weird for well over a year now. When it did work, it was great. Remote start and all. My question, can I just unplug the brain and put a new one in, or do I need to have all the old wires removed and put a whole new alarm system in? Did you get that scar tissue when you got your vagina installed? KNOWLEDGE DESTROYS FEAR Measure twice, cut once JVC touchscreen HU Mmats E600.4 Realm L56c Audiophile 6.5 comps up front JBL P963 rear deck PB RTA 112 trunk CE Auto Big 3 Mechman 240alt D'Amore VM-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03silvergt Posted October 25, 2013 Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 In my opinion, I would replace all the wires. Unless you know for a fact that every wire is good and wired right, but then I still might still replace them anyway. 2017 Chevrolet Silverado LT CC - Will be running 2-3 DC Audion M3 8s, unsure of amp, Mechman 320 amp alt. 2005 Ford F150 - Bagged on 24s, fully shaved, raised bed floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jk13 Posted October 25, 2013 Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 Maybe even more than audio--alarm install is as or more important than the product used. Redo it all or don't bother. I've seen some stuff roll through from other shops that was absolutely disgusting. Scotchloks, wire nuts, t-taps, you name it. Static drops are my bag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bailey Posted October 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 Yeah, I don 't want to tackle the job myself. Will a shop charge extra since they have to remove my old one first? Did you get that scar tissue when you got your vagina installed? KNOWLEDGE DESTROYS FEAR Measure twice, cut once JVC touchscreen HU Mmats E600.4 Realm L56c Audiophile 6.5 comps up front JBL P963 rear deck PB RTA 112 trunk CE Auto Big 3 Mechman 240alt D'Amore VM-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted October 25, 2013 Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 Some will some wont. Its pretty shop dependent. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acme Tops & Tunes Posted October 25, 2013 Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 What type of vehicle is the alarm in and what are the symptoms/issues you are having? Acme Tops & Tunes 6430 Franklin Blvd. Sacramento, CA 95823 www.acmetopsandtunes.com PH 916.429.2293 FX 916.429.2296 Facebook YouTube Twitter Yelp Google Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bailey Posted October 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 07 Toyota Camry. It does not always arm/disarm anymore. Not a remote battery problem, they have been changed. It went off one time an didn't stop, and when I went under to manual disarm, it went off when I tapped the brain/wiring. I think it seems like a loose connection going into the brain somewhere. Did you get that scar tissue when you got your vagina installed? KNOWLEDGE DESTROYS FEAR Measure twice, cut once JVC touchscreen HU Mmats E600.4 Realm L56c Audiophile 6.5 comps up front JBL P963 rear deck PB RTA 112 trunk CE Auto Big 3 Mechman 240alt D'Amore VM-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acme Tops & Tunes Posted October 25, 2013 Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 If it is an older system, the arm/disarm problem could be as simple as a broken solder joint inside the key fob but if you are also just tapping the alarm brain and getting it to turn on/off then their might be a bigger issue at hand. Could just be a loose wire especially if it is an old install and it was installed with wire nuts or t-taps such as jk13 has previously said and if you have no alarm experience or just don't want to mess with it, taking it to your closest certified shop will be your best bet. Most shops will charge a diagnostic fee (typically minimum shop labor rate) and the problem is typically found within the first hour of inspection depending on the technicians experience. The easiest "do it yourself" thing you can do without getting to involved is double check the main ground on the alarm brain and make sure your antenna is still properly connected. Hope this helped. Acme Tops & Tunes 6430 Franklin Blvd. Sacramento, CA 95823 www.acmetopsandtunes.com PH 916.429.2293 FX 916.429.2296 Facebook YouTube Twitter Yelp Google Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpatFieya Posted October 26, 2013 Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 First thing is to get model # of the alarm so you can find out the manufacturer of it and see if it's still made. If it's still made/sold you can google it & find out it's cost. (This will help you weigh out if it's worth getting fixed or not). The symptoms your describing can be caused by many things, most listed above already. Most of the time, I lean towards bad installation. It could be a bad connection (I.E. T-taps, scotch locks, etc) which can cause intermittent behaviors. It could also be that the brain is bad it's self. You could take it to a shop and have it diagnosed, but most of the time it's more cost effective to get a new alarm. Also, ask the shop how it prefers to make connections. The answer should be military splice/solder. No exceptions. R.F.M. READ THE F****** FREE MANUAL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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