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Wire splice and Tee connectors


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Posted

I have a '13 Altima 3.5SL with the Blose system. Its a lease. I'm planning to add some beat to it but in stages and in a way that I don't ruin the stock system in case I decide to give it back (I could keep it after lease).

I will need to tap the main OEM wiring harness (while keeping the molex connector intact) to get to the primary Front/Rear L/R sources for the Blose amp that is in the trunk. Which method of tapping the signal would anyone suggest?

1. I could cut the wire and *try* to solder an additional wire into it. I may have issues with working space in the trunk to do this.

2. I could try to remove these 8 wires from the molex harness and then try the solder route.

3. I could use one the many aftermarket "Tee" connectors and just crimp onto the wire to route the signal over to new sub amp.

Which do you suggest?

Posted

Lease - tap in the rear with scotch lock connectors to LOC. Add mild system and big 3. Remove system And big 3 at end of lease.

If you keep the ride, expand like a mofo.

3

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

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Posted

know matter what i do i still try to solider my connections.

2009 bmw 5 series

Head Unit Stock

Amplifier-JL Audio JX 360/4

Processor- Audiocontrol LC6

Posted

Don't use t-taps I beg you. I've used crimp caps with installs, If they ever wanted something different swapped in or added I just opened up the crimp cap and used a new one with the wiring. Simple and secure.

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