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tips on running active


fx4trucker

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putting a capacitor/bass blocker inline on a tweeter is good practice when running active. it's a good safe guard if your active crossover fails or your crossover point goes below what the tweeter can handle. i guess this is more good practice when installing on someone else's vehicle. I always put an inline crossover about 1k hertz above the minimum frequency response of the tweeter. i'm sure someone will try to attack this but i run active and install for money so it's not just my opinion it's professional.

... and a great pratice to do when installing tweeters, I'm not denying that at all. It's just not considered "true Active Setup" ...

Thats why when you go active ... You must know what you are doing because (I've said this in the past) Active is an "advanced" category in the world of Car Audio ...

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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  • 2 weeks later...

putting a capacitor/bass blocker inline on a tweeter is good practice when running active. it's a good safe guard if your active crossover fails or your crossover point goes below what the tweeter can handle. i guess this is more good practice when installing on someone else's vehicle. I always put an inline crossover about 1k hertz above the minimum frequency response of the tweeter. i'm sure someone will try to attack this but i run active and install for money so it's not just my opinion it's professional.

... and a great pratice to do when installing tweeters, I'm not denying that at all. It's just not considered "true Active Setup" ...

Thats why when you go active ... You must know what you are doing because (I've said this in the past) Active is an "advanced" category in the world of Car Audio ...

Randal, using capacitors as cheap protection for tweeters does not mean it's no longer an "active" system. In this context we're still using an electronic crossover on the tweeters, just that it's above and beyond what a mere inline capacitor can do. I never endorse 1st order crossovers, especially not on tweeters, which are very sensitive in regard to power handling.

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It means it is not a fully active system.

Going active implies that you are going full active, which in turn means no passive filtering.

There is no need for a bass-blocker inline with the tweeters when going active, because even if you know which capacitor to get to filter at the right frequency you should be able to do it actively..

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Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

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Randal, using capacitors as cheap protection for tweeters does not mean it's no longer an "active" system. In this context we're still using an electronic crossover on the tweeters, just that it's above and beyond what a mere inline capacitor can do. I never endorse 1st order crossovers, especially not on tweeters, which are very sensitive in regard to power handling.

If you think that "going active" only means using an electronic crossover on the tweeters ... then you need to learn ALOT more about active processing ...

The active processor calculates everything to make the driver work to it's best expectations ... EQ, X-over, phase, slope, so on and so forth ...

Now if you take it upon your self to add a passive unit in between the amplifier and driver (no matter what it is) ... Now you've just threw off all of the settings by the processor ...

In critical listening and judging ... you will have faulty settings on your processor and could cause you problems ...

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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Randal, using capacitors as cheap protection for tweeters does not mean it's no longer an "active" system. In this context we're still using an electronic crossover on the tweeters, just that it's above and beyond what a mere inline capacitor can do. I never endorse 1st order crossovers, especially not on tweeters, which are very sensitive in regard to power handling.

If you think that "going active" only means using an electronic crossover on the tweeters ... then you need to learn ALOT more about active processing ...

The active processor calculates everything to make the driver work to it's best expectations ... EQ, X-over, phase, slope, so on and so forth ...

Now if you take it upon your self to add a passive unit in between the amplifier and driver (no matter what it is) ... Now you've just threw off all of the settings by the processor ...

In critical listening and judging ... you will have faulty settings on your processor and could cause you problems ...

Randal, we clearly have a difference of opinion. The capacitor adds a 90 degree phase shift at and around the crossover point. I realize many tuners would rather not have that to tune around, but we're capable of making mistakes, and tweeters do get destroyed from mistakes. Can we agree on that?

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The 80prs might be 3way active but you can set it up in a way that you can use the filter on an amp to filter out for a 4th set of speakers such as true mid bass speakers.

I don't know if that could be called a true active setup then.

The way it could be done is setting the mid filter for 63hz-4khz running the RCAS to a 2 channel amp with pass throughs to another amp such As a for channel and set one of the filters to filter out everything below say 150hz for a set of mids and the other channel set to all pass with the high RCAS from the hu it for the tweets.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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The capacitor adds a 90 degree phase shift at and around the crossover point.

I have a Basic Electronics Degree, So I know how a capacitor works brother ...

I realize many tuners would rather not have that to tune around, but we're capable of making mistakes, and tweeters do get destroyed from mistakes. Can we agree on that?

Yes, people make mistakes ...

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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When you run full active, your RCA outputs on a active capable head unit go from front, rear, sub to high, mid, and low bass. The amp you should use would have a X10 crossover for high pass. RF power series, sundown sax125.4 I know for a fact have these crossovers. You set your cut off frequencies on each output, high, mid, low. Not using the passive crossovers that usually come with the component set. I've been itching to try it but need to do some serious homework first. This is how I understand running full active is.

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If you have a "full active" head unit or processor R James Trapp ... then you would not need any crossover capabilities on your amplifiers. Just wasted electronics in line that really does not need to be there ... That's why you would spend the extra bucks to buy a "full active" head unit or processor in the first place ...

When you go "full active" ... your amplifiers should do ONE job ... and that's amplify the input signal to a desired output for the drivers ...

It would be BEST if you could find amplifiers that would be gain free (no gain controller) ... just line level matched to the input source. Then you would really start to see what dynamics really means ...

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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If you have a "full active" head unit or processor R James Trapp ... then you would not need any crossover capabilities on your amplifiers. Just wasted electronics in line that really does not need to be there ... That's why you would spend the extra bucks to buy a "full active" head unit or processor in the first place ...

When you go "full active" ... your amplifiers should do ONE job ... and that's amplify the input signal to a desired output for the drivers ...

It would be BEST if you could find amplifiers that would be gain free (no gain controller) ... just line level matched to the input source. Then you would really start to see what dynamics really means ...

ive never ran active so its news to me. so how does that multiplier play into an active set up? i mean, i see your piont, but whats the purpose of it being on the amp?

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