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03 RF Lancer amp swap. Punch replaces Power series.


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its a shame those numbers are up there in freq though. would be nice to see numbers like that in the 50hz range at least.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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I think its around 200hz but we have all seen Steave Meades amp dyno tests and the real rms happens on music(Dynamic) and all the RF amps have rated very high. Its just a #, i know i bought a great product! Upgrading from a 1999 RF Power 1000a1 that wird down to 1 ohm or at least the sub is, what the amp is seeing with box rise i dont know. The 1000a1 will be installed in another build. Rockin RF!

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Wow just stumbled on this build. Read the 4 pages. Wow you have been busy spending money lol. Nice system you have collected there.

I also purchased the toolmaker adapters to run 1/0 wire to my amps. They are real nice pieces for a great price. Cant wait to see the install happen. Looks good

80prs

Arc Audio Xdi 1200.6 (using active crossovers) Freaking awesome amplifier

Incriminator IA 10.1

Focal PS 130v 5.25 (doors)

4" Faital pro Neo (kick panels) 

3" Faital pro Neo and focal tweets( dash)

DC Audio level 3 12"  custom box designed by joex built by me

AGM front, XS 750SE batteries rear

DC 180 alt

99 Toyota Tacoma extra cab

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179476-my-small-build-turned-into-the-ongoing-build/

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It varies by amp really.

the powercube rms output rating lists rms output at a higher freq where as the rms rating is more of a peak power you can see on music in,the real world. Still isn't necessarily what the Amp will put out daily on music but just it's potential rms output for a daily musical setup.

that's part of the reason why it's possible to overpower a sub, just because an amp is rated to do x rms doesn't mean you will see that constantly daily on,music in,the real world.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, back from 90 hrs in 6 days on build upgrades. Still tired as hell and trying to get caught up on sleep so bare with me as i will be posting upgrade pics slowly. What i have discovered is not having a garage to do this kind of work can suck because i have a limited window to get it done. 6 months worth of designing and buying equipment to put in in 6 days by myself burns me out. I am some what of a perfectionist and if i had a garage i would spend 10x longer getting everything perfect to my standards, but in the time frame i had i could only spend a couple hours working on it.

Ok, enough boring talk on my insight since i know everyone just wants tosee pics! ha ha But i must say that the front stage is amazingly loud and really clear. I was worried that 1 set of tweeters wouldnt be enough but it worked out great.

Sub stage is loouder and more direct with what i did since i changed it up due to how i mounted the amps, cant say much more without spoiling it and will let the pics do the talking.

I also just finished in time before i lost gareage time so i didnt have time to TA or auto EQ. The systems running FLAT and is really impressive to me. Keep in mind that besides my own builds i have not had the privlage to listen to other systems to compare. But i do know what i like when it comes sound in car audio.

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I hate the auto eq on the 80 prs so you might have dodged a bullet there lol.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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A pic after tear down of interior and ready to add sound deaden to rear deck and trunk area. Shits addictive to put in, i used it spearingly at first because i knew i would need it elseware thru out the build and would try to go back to areas that might need more. I will admit i was one of "those Guys" that tried Peal & Stick in the trunk floor and will never do that again. To be honest i wish i had just stripped the whole interior and sound deadened it to begin with, but not have a garage to do that in i did the best i could. So all 4 doors, rear deck & wall and trunk & lid are done well. Problem is that while driving you hear road noise so the floor being done would have help that.

Lancerstereoupgrade3002_zps9720a0da.jpg

Lancerstereoupgrade3003_zpscccd0904.jpg

Lancerstereoupgrade3004_zps6aa7bafc.jpg

Lancerstereoupgrade3005_zpsca4e20cf.jpg

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I removed the trunk lid to install expanding foam in the support beams. It was a great way to do it, so clean that way. I had next to no clean up from the foam. Before removing the lid i drilled a small hole between the bolts on the hinges to reinstall and align up like it was from factory. Very simple and worked great.Mind you i did this by myself.

Lancerstereoupgrade3006_zps6e6ab2d0.jpg

Lancerstereoupgrade3007_zps1f73c661.jpg

Now here i wanted to cover these open holes in the trunk lid so i cut out sheet metal and screwed it down to seal the holes.

Lancerstereoupgrade3010_zpsc8691fa7.jpg

Then i used sound deadener to cover sheet metal and all open holes in the lid.

Lancerstereoupgrade3011_zpsaa736fd2.jpg

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