Guest Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 blue wire goes to remote. red wire goes to whatever you want to read voltage drop. black wire goes to the ground of what you're reading. like an amp, you can just run all 3 wires to the amps 3 terminals and be fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skax Posted January 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 blue wire goes to remote. red wire goes to whatever you want to read voltage drop. black wire goes to the ground of what you're reading. like an amp, you can just run all 3 wires to the amps 3 terminals and be fine so just run all 3 wires to the 1500bdcp? and i can just mount it up in my dash? 2002 Mustang GT Procharged Procharger P1SC Supercharger, 8psi Procharger Intercooler, Headers, Borla Off Road X-Pipe Exhaust, Mass Airflow Upgraded Fuel Injectors SCT Flash Chip (Excaliber II), Throttle Body, Lowering Springs, Carbon Fiber Hood -Front 275/40ZR17 -Rear 315/35ZR17 5.0 Short Shifter 3.55 Gears Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 yup. three wires into the three matching terminals on the amp. done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefourth Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 blue wire goes to remote. red wire goes to whatever you want to read voltage drop. black wire goes to the ground of what you're reading. like an amp, you can just run all 3 wires to the amps 3 terminals and be fine so just run all 3 wires to the 1500bdcp? and i can just mount it up in my dash? Yes all 3 wires to the amp and it can be mounted anywhere Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do thatI can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream. oh lawd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skax Posted January 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Ok appreciate the help guys thanks so much 2002 Mustang GT Procharged Procharger P1SC Supercharger, 8psi Procharger Intercooler, Headers, Borla Off Road X-Pipe Exhaust, Mass Airflow Upgraded Fuel Injectors SCT Flash Chip (Excaliber II), Throttle Body, Lowering Springs, Carbon Fiber Hood -Front 275/40ZR17 -Rear 315/35ZR17 5.0 Short Shifter 3.55 Gears Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Also about your battery, you would benefit more from adding that new battery to the back than just replacing the up front one. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skax Posted January 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Also about your battery, you would benefit more from adding that new battery to the back than just replacing the up front one. ok ill take that into consideration when i buy the battery i went ahead and bought a dd-1 instead of my battery for now 2002 Mustang GT Procharged Procharger P1SC Supercharger, 8psi Procharger Intercooler, Headers, Borla Off Road X-Pipe Exhaust, Mass Airflow Upgraded Fuel Injectors SCT Flash Chip (Excaliber II), Throttle Body, Lowering Springs, Carbon Fiber Hood -Front 275/40ZR17 -Rear 315/35ZR17 5.0 Short Shifter 3.55 Gears Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Also about your battery, you would benefit more from adding that new battery to the back than just replacing the up front one. ok ill take that into consideration when i buy the battery i went ahead and bought a dd-1 instead of my battery for now Good buy, I bought one used a long time ago and am loving it! such a great tool On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 If your front battery is a wet cell dont mix it with an AGM get some quality OFC 1/0 and fuse at the front @ 300a fuse you 4 ga leads off of the distro block to the amps they are powering - yes a 150 fuse will work for you 1500 bdcp but RF calls for a 200a - i would use a 200a lose the cap Get enough 1/0 to do big 3 Read More on this site - lots of good info that will answer most of your questions is already out here. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 I've used a 150 amp fuse for my 1500.1bdcp for ever with no issue. Fuse your power wire as close to the front battery as possible for what the write is recommended fire, most 1/0 gauge is 300 amps. IMO, pending cap it could be beneficial still. Yes they discharge quickly but they also recharge just as fast. I have been using a 10 farad Rockford carbon cap for a while and last time I had my t1500.1bdcp hooked up I didn't drop below 12v stock electrical and new stock, Barry from oreily. No big 3 110 amp alt. Had my 400.4 hooked up to. With out cap I was getting drops down to low 11s. Village drop was worse on burps then music with and with out the cap but I still stayed at a higher voltage with the cap. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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