MatthewBigBossWilliams Posted January 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Well I am just glad the admins didnt delete this post and just decided to move it thanks guys. I found out that the voltage drop is due to the cars "smart" ability. When it does not need the power, it will only push out 12.2 volts. As soon as you turn on something electrical, say headlights, it will go to 13.5.adding the heater on with the fan 4/7 of the way will push it to 14.2. I still ordered the new battery though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 get a nice agm battery, something that has a resting voltage of 12.6-12.8v I would want an external voltage regulator in your situation for sure then. get away from that pcm controlled alt. it is nothing but a headache. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewBigBossWilliams Posted January 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 Why would it be a headache? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 Less voltage means.less reliability and less power. Ti get more voltage like your saying you would need to turn on a bunch of other thing. I like it simple. Set the charging voltage.and leave it alone. Also 12.2 is battery voltage, IMO a car should always put out more then battery voltage fire several reasons including better spark and all around performance from the car alone. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldsoundguy Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 The big three didn't help my truck charge higher but it did help sustain voltage with less drop. 80prs Arc Audio Xdi 1200.6 (using active crossovers) Freaking awesome amplifier Incriminator IA 10.1 Focal PS 130v 5.25 (doors) 4" Faital pro Neo (kick panels) 3" Faital pro Neo and focal tweets( dash) DC Audio level 3 12" custom box designed by joex built by me AGM front, XS 750SE batteries rear DC 180 alt 99 Toyota Tacoma extra cab http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179476-my-small-build-turned-into-the-ongoing-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECHMAN Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 Keep in mind the PCM control only controls the voltage not the amperage. Plus if you EXTERNALLY regulate the alternator you will have a battery light on the dash plus you may lose some of the vehicle comforts 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewBigBossWilliams Posted January 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 I am not convinced to put a regulator back there. The vehicle is sstill warrantied and messing with the voltage too much will kill the warranty. How would i check for the alternator amperage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECHMAN Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 Get a amp clamp style multi meter and turn everything on in the vehicle then clamp the positive side cable at the alternator. What is the year make and model of your vehicle? 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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