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box tips for 4 sc'd dd 9518's anyone?


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With a double baffle, which is the absolute minimum I'd run on that box and more than likely I'd triple it, that's only 25.xx cubes beside sub or port displacements. Port will eat 1-2 cubes depending on which style you go with and subs will eat another .80 or so(me giving a generic value of .20 per sub).

So my rough math says you've got 22-23 cubes to work with. That's 5.5-5.75 cubes per, that's all you've got. That's still me guessing with rough numbers. With 38" of depth, how much clearance before the hatch do you have, or is that every useable inch you have. You'd need clearance for that port to breathe.

the port would be 4'' from the hatch

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To get 440" of port, if you run the port the entire width of the enclosure, you'll need it to be 9.5" tall by 46.5" wide. With only 4" of clearance that could definitely be a problem. It could especially ne a problem if you only have 4" at the mouth if the port, as the hatch angles up and toward the enclosure a bit(taking into account the plastic trim on the tailgate). Is the Tahoe the one with the barn doors, or the full lifting hatch that is one piece?

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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To get 440" of port, if you run the port the entire width of the enclosure, you'll need it to be 9.5" tall by 46.5" wide. With only 4" of clearance that could definitely be a problem. It could especially ne a problem if you only have 4" at the mouth if the port, as the hatch angles up and toward the enclosure a bit(taking into account the plastic trim on the tailgate). Is the Tahoe the one with the barn doors, or the full lifting hatch that is one piece?

It's a hatch, they got rid of the Barn doors as far as I know as of 2007 and newer. Also, I have the same vehicle and I was doubting 2 - 18" because of space restraints in back. Tuned in for 4 - 18" though

You got about 48" inbetween the wheel ells in back, 42.5" from the bottom of the seat to the hatch but becuase the seat is angled you only got about 36" from the top of the seat to the rear hatch and for height you got about 26" from floor to the top of the backseat (but you could go high and just see some of the side of the box as *B* has done)

EDIT: 2 - 18" box same style Tahoe

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174915-the-calm-b4-the-storm-b-eazys-tahoe-2-smdv1-18s-10k-rms/

4 - 15" box same style Tahoe

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/170932-2007-tahoe-build-log-4-15-vids-pg-12/?hl=%202007%20%20tahoe

And I know there are others on here with same style Tahoes to look at as well.

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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To get 440" of port, if you run the port the entire width of the enclosure, you'll need it to be 9.5" tall by 46.5" wide. With only 4" of clearance that could definitely be a problem. It could especially ne a problem if you only have 4" at the mouth if the port, as the hatch angles up and toward the enclosure a bit(taking into account the plastic trim on the tailgate). Is the Tahoe the one with the barn doors, or the full lifting hatch that is one piece?

Full hatch

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To get 440" of port, if you run the port the entire width of the enclosure, you'll need it to be 9.5" tall by 46.5" wide. With only 4" of clearance that could definitely be a problem. It could especially ne a problem if you only have 4" at the mouth if the port, as the hatch angles up and toward the enclosure a bit(taking into account the plastic trim on the tailgate). Is the Tahoe the one with the barn doors, or the full lifting hatch that is one piece?

Full hatch

Yeah I totally had a derp moment thinking it was the 00-06 bodystyle with the multiple options. I know the NBS only has the hatch option but forgot that's the model we were talking about. With the depth of the box set at 38" and only having 4" of clearance at the bottom of the hatch(which means less the further you go up), I don't know if you have enough room in a cargo area box. You're gonna sacrifice some serious output if you try to cram the 18s back there. You're either going to choke the port, or shave too much airspace for the subs to perform properly in my opinion.

It reminds me of a local guy here that had a shop design and build his system for 4 Level 4 DC 18s. It's in a mid 70s K5 Blazer. They built the box with the port firing RIGHT AT the tailgate with about 3" of clearance at the bottom and 1" of clearance at the top(this port is a solid 14X24"). It does a mid 140s on the Termlab because most of the sound and pressure is lost in straight rattle. Most of the energy coming from the port is lost in rattle it was very disappointing for the customer.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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Wall it. Wall it. Wall it. Walls don't have to be messy

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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To get 440" of port, if you run the port the entire width of the enclosure, you'll need it to be 9.5" tall by 46.5" wide. With only 4" of clearance that could definitely be a problem. It could especially ne a problem if you only have 4" at the mouth if the port, as the hatch angles up and toward the enclosure a bit(taking into account the plastic trim on the tailgate). Is the Tahoe the one with the barn doors, or the full lifting hatch that is one piece?

Full hatch

Yeah I totally had a derp moment thinking it was the 00-06 bodystyle with the multiple options. I know the NBS only has the hatch option but forgot that's the model we were talking about. With the depth of the box set at 38" and only having 4" of clearance at the bottom of the hatch(which means less the further you go up), I don't know if you have enough room in a cargo area box. You're gonna sacrifice some serious output if you try to cram the 18s back there. You're either going to choke the port, or shave too much airspace for the subs to perform properly in my opinion.

It reminds me of a local guy here that had a shop design and build his system for 4 Level 4 DC 18s. It's in a mid 70s K5 Blazer. They built the box with the port firing RIGHT AT the tailgate with about 3" of clearance at the bottom and 1" of clearance at the top(this port is a solid 14X24"). It does a mid 140s on the Termlab because most of the sound and pressure is lost in straight rattle. Most of the energy coming from the port is lost in rattle it was very disappointing for the customer.

I see what you are saying, how far should we stay away from the roof if we go up with the box?

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There will come a point where you will lose visibility and choke your box if you get too close to the ceiling. You can wall it and not have it look like shit. I can pull my panels and you'd never know that my truck was walled. At least at the point where the trim panels touch the factory plastics.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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