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Quarter Wave / T-Line tutorial-UPDATED


Forevrbumpn

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Is your desired tuning 34hz? Thats what 8.3ft gets you. For a 4" your port would be more like 10" (1.8x1.8x3.14). Rough-guess at 1.8, not sure how big your surround is.

Where is this "sub" going?

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

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I want the sub to hit around 25hz at the lowest, so yes I think 34hz would be a good tuning. The surround is about 1/3", I have yet to really measure but that's my guess. This sub is going to go in my dorm room, which is pretty damn small if I might add..

EDIT: I actually measured the cone today and got 2.125 sq in as my effective area, surround turned out to be 3/8" thick and the actual cone is 3 3/8" in diameter (without taking the curvature into account)...does this effect anything, or is the cone area as the radius and half the surround the only important number? One last question; when told to measure "half the surround" does it mean to measure just the surround on one side of the cone, or does it mean half of the width of the general surround. I really appreciate all the help I've been getting around here guys, thanks!

Numbers as of now:

cone area=14.2 sq in

Using a calculator my box will be 71" long and 9.5" wide, with the first fold being 35.8" long on the outside wall (32.5" on the inside where the turn is made), 9.5" wide, and tapering from 3.6" (where the driver is) to 3.3". The second fold will also be 35.8" long and 9.5" wide but tapering from 3.3" to 3" at the end of the line.

Using my own measurements, my box will be 65" long and 4.7" wide with both folds being 35.5" long on the outside (32.5" on the inside where the fold is made) 4.7" wide and 3" tall.

I can upload pics and designs if necessary, sorry if this is a thread jack (Mods feel free to move/create a new topic if necessary) but thanks for all the advice!

P.P.S. my driver is coming out of a small 2.1 system, rated at 15w at 6ohms, I'm guessing the Fs is 52hz cuz of the "052" printed on the magnet, but does this sound like a realistic fs for a 4" driver? Thanks!!

masterbation is free, and even saves you money.sorry but someone had to say it

sorry, Jimmy...beat you to it (no pun intended)

LOLDON'T get a wife. Best advice I never got, and now it's too late <_<

My build: 12" DCON in a dorm room.

New/current build: 8" woofer, custom amplifier block, fiberglassed speaker pods

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Given how small the driver is i'd make the t-line a little small. Backpressure might be a good thing for it. You could probably tune it for near 35hz and make a cardboard flare (like the mouth of a horn kind of) to tape on the end for a quick test to see if it makes it better or worse to tune lower.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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i heard that woofers in a t-line can usually play down a full octave under the tuning frequency..If this is true, the sub will be able to get down to around 22hz which is plenty low for me. Is this true?

masterbation is free, and even saves you money.sorry but someone had to say it

sorry, Jimmy...beat you to it (no pun intended)

LOLDON'T get a wife. Best advice I never got, and now it's too late <_<

My build: 12" DCON in a dorm room.

New/current build: 8" woofer, custom amplifier block, fiberglassed speaker pods

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i heard that woofers in a t-line can usually play down a full octave under the tuning frequency..If this is true, the sub will be able to get down to around 22hz which is plenty low for me. Is this true?

Depends on the woofer itself. Low qts woofers will do better below tuning.

Ryan Miskin - owner of RAM Designs


I have my PM's turned off, please email at <script data-cfhash='f9e31' type="text/javascript"> /* */</script>


2200+ designs since March 2011...

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given that it's a small woofer and low excursion before bottoming out, i take it i should tune the box a little bit higher to get more back pressure?

masterbation is free, and even saves you money.sorry but someone had to say it

sorry, Jimmy...beat you to it (no pun intended)

LOLDON'T get a wife. Best advice I never got, and now it's too late <_<

My build: 12" DCON in a dorm room.

New/current build: 8" woofer, custom amplifier block, fiberglassed speaker pods

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looking forward to how it goes goremaster :)

Since you have 4 18's why not something like this? :) Adding some angle to the inner-walls so its narrow at the start and wide at the end would make up for "lack of room" to keep the t-line at the correct size for 4 18's.

clam-line.png

But here's a question. Seeing the subs are at different lengths wouldnt there be canclations or fuck ups

I can't stop building!!!


4 DC LeveL 4XL 18 Blow Through Re-Build
The newest addition My '97 Ford Explorer Build
My First Build 8 RF P1 12's
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oh, your a hypocrite too bro.....your mom has my name on her left tit - and you still like her dont you?

If youre masturbating to that sub already, wait until you get a real sub... I think your nutsack will shrivel up.
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looking forward to how it goes goremaster :)

Since you have 4 18's why not something like this? :) Adding some angle to the inner-walls so its narrow at the start and wide at the end would make up for "lack of room" to keep the t-line at the correct size for 4 18's.

clam-line.png

But here's a question. Seeing the subs are at different lengths wouldnt there be canclations or fuck ups

Dont think it'd be much of an issue otherwise clamshells wouldnt work either :P

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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looking forward to how it goes goremaster :)

Since you have 4 18's why not something like this? :) Adding some angle to the inner-walls so its narrow at the start and wide at the end would make up for "lack of room" to keep the t-line at the correct size for 4 18's.

clam-line.png

But here's a question. Seeing the subs are at different lengths wouldnt there be canclations or fuck ups

Dont think it'd be much of an issue otherwise clamshells wouldnt work either :P

Then it looks like that's what im going to try and do. But with I believe 4 p3 15s. But this isn't going to happen untill this summer

I can't stop building!!!


4 DC LeveL 4XL 18 Blow Through Re-Build
The newest addition My '97 Ford Explorer Build
My First Build 8 RF P1 12's
My Myspace Add Me
My Facebook Add Me

oh, your a hypocrite too bro.....your mom has my name on her left tit - and you still like her dont you?

If youre masturbating to that sub already, wait until you get a real sub... I think your nutsack will shrivel up.
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